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Hey, anybody know where I can buy a Cobalt 343?
Have a 2003 COBALT 293 with twin 5.0′s, BRAVO 3 drives. Stock trim tabs are inadequate. Constantly have to adjust.
Less than 9″ in size. Anyone have any experience with aftermarket trim tabs solving this problem?
I have the same issue with my 292…same boat as yours with open bow! Constantly in the trim tabs to stay level. Plus, I have a large custom radar arch with bimini tops so the wind plays a major issue. If you find something out…please let me know!!!
Sean..
thinking of buying a 293, and wanted to hear from an owner. i would priamrily day trip in shore, but is it ok for the times I would want to go into open ocean for an ovenight?
are they worth the premium prices?
Hi Kendall, Where do you plan to use your Cobalt 343. I may have one available soon with diesels and no A/C.
I look forward to hearing from you.
we have a slightly used 343 if you are interested
I have a 2004 Cobalt 343 with factory 575 hp motors that was built for Paxton, the president of Cobalt. Less than 100 hrs on engines and 2.9 on the gen.
Just purchased a 2000 Cobalt 206. The depth finder works for 5-30 seconds and then goes back to 1 foot. Any ideas on troubleshooting? Thanks.
Anyone know what the warning beeper means. Not the one for depth finder, one that beeps every 10 seconds or so from the engine compartment.
The only experience I have had like this (that I could not figure out at the time) was when my drive oil container (up front) had a small leak, therfore the lube was running a bit low. So when I would go up on plane the level shifted just a bit, just before the low tolerance, which activated a sensor & the beeping. Otherwise, just make sure you check the temp gauge to make sure you are not over heating — could have a failing impeller.
Possibly your lower unit oil level alarm…if you boat is so equipped.
Had the same problem last year and it drove me CRAZY! You have probably already done this, but first check all your fluid levels, and see if the temp gage seems to read correct as the engine warms. My dealer told me as long as all these are good, and the boat is running fine, I could probably finish the season in my small in-land lake.
Mine was every 30 seconds, and turned out to be a bad “idle air mixture control module”, fancy name for a butterfly valve. Ended up costing me around $200 and took less than a day to have replaced. Made me wish I would have taken it in sooner.
The warning beeper could mean many things. Cobalt has a built-in alarm system. Some beeps mean specific things, and other beeps mean several things. What year/model is your Cobalt?
i am having some trouble with my ski locker draining properly on my 2000 226. Seems like the drain at the rear of the locker is clear, but the gas tank is apparently installed immediately on the other side which seems to restrict the flow to a trickle.
Anyone have a similar problem/fix?
Would appreciate any advise…
On my ’07 226 the little aft locker on the rear platform doesn’t drain worth a crud. I’ve tried messing with the tap handle in the engine compartment, but nothing makes it work very well. Must be that it clogs easily. I always have to empty by hand by slinging the water out with my hand, or by using a chamois a bunch of times to suck it put out of there. Kinda bites for $65K; but if that’s my biggest complaint … and it is
I just purchased a 1979 Cobalt 18′ bow rider in terrific condition, but cannot find info on this boat. Does anyone out there know what the approximate dry weight of these boats are. This would be very helpful as I will be towing it with a 3/4 ton pickup with camper and weight is a real issue.
Thanks
i have a 1973 cobalt bowrider and it weighs 3100 pounds w/trailer.
I just bought the same boat and I have all the manuals! I will check for you!
Does anyone know where you can get a bimini top for a 1976 Cobalt 18′ Bowrider?
my boats dept finder is having problems… it will make a (beeping) sound when in gear travling around 900-1400 rpms. my sallow alarm is set at 3 ft but, will make (beeping) sounds like it is sallow at 12 or so feet and will not turn off till i increase in speed??
2005 226 cobalit
Hi Anthony,
The alarm is probably not related to your depth finder. Cobalt alarms can mean many things. Since your boat is still under warranty, contact your dealer because they can diagnose and likely fix the problem. For example, you could have some sand in your lower unit that does not affect performance at higher RPMs. There could be something loose on the engine that causes the alarm. Any number of things could be happening so contact your dealer.
I am having same loud alarm. I am some distance from dealer. What can I check or do myself. Mine sounds like alarm is coming from under dash. It is not my depth sounder. I have a 2003 220 with about 175 hours. Thanks
Hi Jack M-
If you go to cobaltboats.com there is a library archive with the original 1977 brochure and owners manual which you can download with Adobe.
I just purchased a 1978 custom made 19′ deep hull Cobalt which I want to restore. Does anyone know where I can find a bimini for it?
Hi all,
I’m looking to purchase my first used Cobalt as a family boat for Lake Tahoe. I need a larger engine (7.4L) but don’t want to spend more than $14k or so. I found an older ’89 21BR in OK condition and a ’94 220 in very good condition. Any recommendation?
i know where there is a 89 model 222 with 454 in excellent condition….it was my old boat. I would bet you could pickup for 10k.
Hello everyone! I am looking at purchasing a 2003 or 2004 Cobalt 220. I have found two beautiful boats and wanted to see if anyone could tell me the difference between the two year models. Were there any changes of note? Options available only to one of the two years? Thanks for any help you can provide here. I love the site, keep up the great work!
Fiberglass Surface Oxidation:
I am sure that there are others who are as anal as I am when it comes to the appearance of their Cobalt. I have a 253 2000 Cobalt and it suffered from Fiberglass Surface Oxidation. I am the second owner thus far, and I must say that I am much more aware of this boat’s problems than the last owner.
What is Fiberglass Surface Oxidation?
The combination of the processes involved in the flow of electrons from a reducing agent (reducer) to an oxidizing agent (oxidant). The total number of electrons lost by one substance is the same as the total number of electrons gained by another substance. Oxidation and reduction always occur together simultaneously and are really opposite sides of the same reaction, which is often called the redox reaction. In earlier years, oxidation referred to the combining of a substance with, or addition of, oxygen; and reduction meant the loss or reduction of oxygen. As chemistry became more advanced, it was seen that the real key to what was happening was the gain or loss of electrons. The following definitions now apply. Oxidation is the loss of electrons from the reducing agent (which is said to have “been oxidized” in the process). Since electrons carry negative charges, oxidation results in an increase of positive valence. Reduction is the acquiring of electrons (the ones lost in the oxidation process) by the oxidizing agent (which is said to have “been reduced” in the process). Because electrons (carrying negative charges) have been acquired, reduction results in a lowering (a reduction) of positive valence. It may be helpful to remember that the word “agent” refers to an active substance that produces or brings about some effect. Therefore the oxidizing agent is the substance that brings about the oxidation; the reducing agent is the substance that brings about the reduction. All of which is why a boat’s fiberglass will look spotty, dull, and/or if touched a white power residue will be left on your fingers.
How to repair it?
Some people say an oxidation remover and color restore is the least abrasive method to bring back that showroom finish. Other people try simply compounding the surface and then re-polishing it. I tried both and it ended up with the same result, after 2-3 days the surface looked faded again.
The only solution that finally worked, Sanding! Actually it’s a three step process that must be done. First step is to Wet Sand the entire boat, or just the area in question, but trust me when you see how easy combined with the great results, you will want to sand every thing. Ok, using a 600 Grit Wed/Dry sand paper, grab a water bucket to dunk in and lightly sand. Note, once wet the sandpaper will slide easy back and forth, removing all the unwanted spotting. Important, once the wet sand paper starts to stick, meaning not moving as slippery across the surface, dunk the sandpaper in the water again. 600 Grit is not abrasive at all; furniture makers use 300 grit as a polishing paper between gloss coats. They do make up to 1200 Grit if you are really concerned. But again, 600 grit, if you were a girl, could buff your finger nails to a mirror shine.
Nevertheless and once the entire area you are repairing is sanded, it is time for step two, compounding. This process is simple you need the brown deep type compound, so make a run to Boater’s World, good thing is they also sell the 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, for it costs about $1 a sheet. Anyway with a small rag apply the compound, let set and remove with a clean, soft rag. For the best results, rent/use an industrial buffer, but I used a small car buffer, costing about $30, and it worked great. After the compounding step, it’s on to the polishing phase. Two coats are needed, I recommend using a polish having a sealer wax.
Finally after the three steps, by the way, taking me three nights after work, the oxidation was removed and nothing but lasting shine. Now it is up to you to keep the oxidation away, Cobalt suggests polishing your boat once a month, not once every season as a friend of mine suggests.
To have the boat yard perform this restoration will cost about $600, but if you follow my outline it will cost less then $100. Materials used were: 6 Full sheets of 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sand paper, 1 Bottle of Brown Deep Type Compound, 2 bottles of Polish with Sealer Wax, 1 sanding block, and 1 bucket. I will try to upload the before and after pictures as well, but the camera doesn’t do it justice, it came out AWESOME!
All the best
Paul Paolillo
I have a 1998 200 that I purchased a few years back. The owners did not do much as far as keeping the oxidization down. I appreciate your post and will try this. I have used the McGuire’s 3 step restoration product that worked very well. The upper blue stripe and the stern is very bad and I would like to try your method to save it. I love my boat and want it to shine on for years to come.
[IMG]http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa124/ppaolillo/Copyofjuly508007.jpg[/IMG]
Very nice!
Before:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa124/ppaolillo/IMG_0594-1.jpg
Hello. I have a 2006 Cobalt 272. Always stored, loaded, very, very low hours. Qant to sell. Asking $58,900.00. Please pass this message out. Thanks
I have a 1971 GT 500 looking for any kind of information about these boats. I know 9 were built but having trouble with finding any articles about it. thanks
I just purchased a 2003 Cobalt 240. I need information on the operation of the depht finder. When I turn the boat on, it always beeps, and I can see that it can be toggled to be set a variety of ways. Is there any written information available for this product.
Hello. And Bye.
Hi everyone, great site!
Does anyone know where can i buy an original cobalt cover online?.. I have found only sites that manufacture themselves , but I´d like an original one….
Can anyone help me?
Thanks
Hello!
I just purchased my old dream boat from 30 years ago. 1978 19′ Cobalt Deep V Bow Rider. Mechanically in great shape but it’s going to need a lot of TLC to bring her luster back including a new propeller. For cruising the treacherous Tennessee river any recommendations? The hull’s side strip is faded as well.
Thank you in advance for any help.
Greg Young
Hi there,
Hope you all had a great Thanksgiving. I wanted to see if Kendall got any luck with finding a Cobalt 343.
I can assist anyone looking to purchase Cobalts and will need service.
Please feel free to use me as your boating resource. Keep up the good work in promoting boating in general.
Happy Holidays
Hello Rod,
i am looking to buy a used Cobalt (2004-2006) and am having a hard time deciding between a 262 or a 250. both are gonna have what i like, 496, over 25 feet, and walk thru stern. Can you enlighten me on what else is differant?
and another topic… if both are same year, condition, hours, etc and were the same money, which one would be the better buy? (aka which one was more valuable when new, which one is more in demand right now?)
thanx for any help you can provide.
dc
Hi guys. I have a 2004 250 that came with the snap in rubber mats for the swim platform. While reversing, the bottom mat snapped off and sank in the lake. Cobalt doesn’t make or stock these mats anymore. My dealer will clean up the swim platform and put armourthane on it, but I really like the mats. If anyone has theirs lying around or knows where I can get one, please let me know. Thanks.
Hello Brad,
My company “Custom Marine Carpet” makes the snap-in style type carpet for Cobalt and many other make boats. see us on the web at http://www.snapincarpet.com
Thanks Brad….Happy Boating!
I have a clean ’97 233. The in dash depth finder, HDR200rm, stopped working and I am unable to locate a replacement that will fit the existing opening. Humminbird does not stock nor repair the original, and their replacement suggestion will require a much larger hole. I would like to keep the boat stock, and am open to direction.
Also, has anyone experienced an excessive gas odor with this boat? I keep it half full, but if I cover with a mooring cover, it reaks when removed. Thanks. MS
My ’07 226 also has a gas odor when it sits in my barn with its cover on. Nature of the beast I think. It goes away pretty quick once the cover’s off.
I need a new battery for the 1987 17BR (I just purchased with 330 hours on it.) The owners manual doesn’t say what battery to use. It had a size 24 that’s dead. Does anyone know what the factory recommends?
Im am thinking about buying a 2000 232 with a 454 7.4 motor.Good condition.358 hrs on it.Is 26,500 a good price for this boat.Thanks in advance
Hi, Have model 360, looking for the s/s rubrail around the swim platform on port side,trying to avoid thea dealer because of the cost ,they want $200.00 for one side. Any help???
We just purchased a 1996 cobalt 190. Its an awesome boat but the only thing that I can think it needs is more room as far as a swim platform. It just has a small ledge on the stern. I was curious if anyone had any ideas on the addition of a swim platform. I know you can buy them online and have then installed locally but which ones fit best, look best, best for the money, etc… thanks
Pete,
I haven’t read all the posts so if you’ve already found a company to add a platform to your Cobalt, you can ignore this email. I have a 1997 220. I added an extended platform to it from Swim Platform in Phoenix, AZ (http://www.swim-platform.com/index.html). In fact, mine was the prototype platform for the 220. I have two young sons so I was thrilled to have the platform extend out over the outdrive. This meant my kids could jump off the back of the boat and land several yards away from the prop. Best addition to my boat that my money could buy!
Mike
Hi Michael,
If you send me an email I might be able to source a depth finder for you jcooper@seattleboat.com
The fuel odor may be one of two things…first you may want to check the vent line from the tank, they tend to get a kink in them. The other reason may be your vent is covered by the mooring cover…some aftermarket brands can sag down and cover the vent.
Hi Frank,
That’s a fair price for a 232….if it’s a dualprop outdrive…even better if it has a custom trailer included.
Hi Kendall,
If your still in the market for a 343 I have multiple years available for sale both new and used…..and at this point we are almost giving them away!
Hi Joe,
That boat requires a group24 battery…..any good quality marine group24 will work….just don’t foget to turn off your battery switch.
Has anyone seen the new 232WSS or 242WSS Watersports Series boats yet? These two boats are going to be two of the most popular boats Cobalt has ever come out with! We had one out on the lake the other day and were swarmed by the local cold water boarders!
I have a great 1979 Cobalt 19 ft deep V. It runs great for about an hour then starts to stall and eventually won’t start. I can go out the next day and it will run great fo about an hour and then it starts the whole process over again. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be causing this.
Assuming you have checked Battery and alternator check the grounds and battery cables. they need to be in like new condition from end to end. I had been fighting a similar problem on my 252.
Chris,
I had a similar problem to this with my former boat (86 Chapperal). It turned out to be the anti-siphon valve that prevents fuel that has been drawn up into the engine from draining back into the gas tank when the engine is turned off. That valve would stick in the closed position (or at least not all the way open) when it warmed up from the sun or motor heat and not open freely. Drove me crazy!
Turned out to be about a $12 dollar part (of course this was not diagnosed until after the cardurator had been rebuilt and a number of other things fixed unnecessarily).
I am looking for a factory extended swim platform for my 2000 Cobalt 226. If anyone knows where I might be able to track one down used, i would appreciate it! I am told by Cobalt that I can use a platform for a 226 from built up to 2004. A new one is available, but out of my price range!
Tony,
I ordered a rear platform from a company out of Arizona called simply Swim-Platform everyone who has been up close swears it was a stock Cobalt deck, I am VERY pleased with the deck and would recommend it to any Cobalt owner, the cost was right as well. I paid roughly $1,500.00 for it delivered to Texas at a commercial address.
Here’s a link for easy navigation- http://www.swim-platform.com/
Good luck!
Scott
469.371.0606
I purchased a 1997 23LS at the end of the season last year. I have enjoyed the boat more than I could have imagined. It has the top engine option for the year – 502MAG with dual prop. Top speed for me has been 64mph in Lake Erie with ~1 foot chop. Wish I had bought this sweet heart years ago.
As this model was only offered for a few years, some information is difficult to find. Hopefully someone here can help me out.
Depth finder does not beep at all, no matter what I set the warning depth to.
I only have a Bimini top and winter cover. Can I order a mooring cover from Cobalt? Should I just have one custom made?
The boat has a single battery and does not have a battery isolation switch. Was this an option for this model? If so, can anyone tell me where the isolation switch is located? I am going to put in a second battery and isolation switch, and wanted to keep it as close as I can to Cobalt specs.
I have a small surface crack in the gel coat near the top of my ladder. Is this something I can fix myself, or should I leave it to a professional?
Lastly…how do I become a member?
Please reply to e-mail – jasonm@lakeeriewarehousing.com
I have a 2000 227 with a 502, bravo 3 drive, 2:1 ratio and downpitched props for altitude running (Lake Tahoe, 6220elev). Can anyone help with propeller pitches, computer adjustment. I now run the boat at Lake Meade (NV) which is about 1100elev. I can run 76mph (radar and GPS tested) but the boat feels like i needs more bite. Besides changing the props are there any computer adjustments (re-program) or anyhting else i can do to make it more altitute friendly. In Lake Tahoe, the speed, fuel usage, holeshot are fantastic but in lower altitude it just feels slugish and thirsty….Thanks to anyone that can help. S
I have a 272 with the 502Mag and Bravo III.
We bought it home from Lake Tahoe (6,200 ft) to Toronto (500ft) and can report the EFI adjusted itself automatically, just as Merc Tech Support told me it would.
No issues with operation, and power to spare.
Same 2.0:1 drive ratio, and with 24 pitch props, easy to attain 50 mph and with neck-snapping start-up.
I have researched this to death, and other than perhaps improving the fuel efficiency, and the top end a few mph, the move to 26 pitch will do little, and cost $500 – $1,000.
I don’t need more that 50 mph, and love the acceleration.
You’ll find many online prop calculators, and you can also call Merc or Cobalt for personal support. Both were great resources for me.
Good luck;
David
I just purchased a 1985 Cobalt Condesa. I am going to get the basics done for the season, then start working on a restoration. I would like to replace the factory emblems on each side near the intake vents. Any good sources? I have a running Ebay search for them….
….and as an olive branch, I am replacing the single step flipdown “ladder”. Anybody need it? It’s impractical so I am going with a telescoping 3 step. Some may want a factory restoration….I just want to do it justice. Solid boat.
Hi Tony, do you know what the part was called exactly? I have a 94 Coblat 255 that starts up cold no problem, runs great however when it warms up and I shut it down and re-start I have to give it plenty of gas to fire it up again. This just started, it’s an EFI system and it is driving me crazy since it is running great except on the warm/hot re-start. Any advice would be greatly appreciated and your experience.
We just bought a 1979 cobalt in perfect shape except the motor. We are in the process of rebuilding the motor. Hopefully in 2 weeks we will have her running. We are looking for a ladder the one step to go on the stepping dock the is made out of teak wood along the back of the boat. We are also looking to replace the orginal plates on the side of the boat. If you hear of where to get them let me know. I have spoken to cobalt and they no longer carry that size. Sue
I have a 1978 with the same problem. Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thanks,
Greg
Where can I purchase an emblem stickers for a 1988 Cobalt bowrider?
I de-winterized my boat- cobalt 293 over the weekend. Water is not flowing in the head, though the macerator pump and flush mechanism is working fine, just now rinse or flush water. Any ideas?
Thanks
I have a 2003 220 that I purchased new that needs some interior upholstery work on the seats. Could you recommend what i can do to try to keep the rework as close as possible to the original? I live in San Antonio, Texas and was told by the local dealer that Cobalt does not do this type of work!
Robert,
The part I had a problem with was simply called the “fuel anti-siphon valve”.
I will say that for your issue you might want to isolate the coil and the fuel pumps as well. These are often culprits when temperature is an issue.
Good luck!
Hi Tony,
I think my problem was fuel related. I had not been using Sta-Bil or any other fuel additive even though I put about 100 hours on it over this winter. I started using Sta-Bil and recently put in an additive to clean the fuel system, injectors. I have to say that it starts up with a touch of the ignition now, as it should. I had my mechanic check the throttle position sensor, EMC, IAC. Everything checked out fine as well. Will keep you posted if it starts acting up again…
I have a Cobalt 223 that I purchased last year.I am just looking for some info on that model,year made and so on.Can you let me know where i can find out more on it.
I recently purchased a 1988 Condurre bowrider. Runs great, but the volt meter does not work. I checked the connections at the meter, and they seem to be o.k. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this problem?
I’m the only one in this world. Can please someone join me in this life? Or maybe death…
I have a 1996 Cobalt 232 with a Volvo Penta 7.4 that I would like to get better performance and mileage from. I am looking for suggestions, I have considered a “Supercharger” but the money isn’t there at this time, I am very handy and can accomplish most work myself.
Any and all suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated!
Love the site, keep it up guys!
Scott
I have a 1978 Cobalt 19′ BR. What is the trick to removing the cigarette lighter on the dashboard? It looks pretty rough & rusted so I wanted to clean it up or replace with out doing more harm than good.
Thanks,
Greg
Can anyone help me obtain an owners manual for a 2000 206?
The attached link will let you download a 2000 owners manual. From what I can see, model specific manuals were not available in 2000.
http://www.cobaltboats.com/art/manuals/2000_owner_manual.pdf
Hope this helps.
Do Bravo Three outdrives have a common problem of leaking drive lube? My boat is new to me and I had the outdrive serviced in the fall and the reservoir was low in the spring. I topped it off and went through one tank of gas and it is low again. The bilge is clean and dry.
I have a 502Mag with Bravo III, and have not seen the issue you mention of fluid leaks.
I would suggest a follow-up call to Merc Technical Support, and I have found them surprizingly honest and helpful.
Also – What does your marine mechanic say?
David
Thanks David. Do you have a number for Merc Tech? My mechanic says their are two seals that tend to leak very slowly and advised to keep an eye on the usage. I had him prform a full service to the outdrive in the fall. He said they looked fine.
I have a 2003 Cobalt 293 with stock trim tabs. Hard to trim boat. Touchy, with less than 9″ tabs. Inadequate tabs.
Constantly require adjustment. Anyone have any experience in correcting this problem with aftermarket trim tabs?
I am looking for a 22″ x 3″ Black background w/ silver letters sewn on COBALT patch, anyone have any ideas where one might purchase one of these? Any help will be appreciated, I’ve tried the usuals, eBay, Craigslist and so on.
Thanks in advance, Scott James
contact pats covers (314) 842-1007 they make replacement covers for cobalt.
Can anyone help with diagnosing a one sided heat problem with an exhaust manifold. I have a very nice original 1978 Cobalt 19 br. Just took it out of winter storage and ran it on the lake. 10-15 minutes after letting it wake up it started to get hot just on the port side exhaust manifold. It must be a water flow problem, but I don’t know if there is any obvious things to look for to cut to the chase… Please help if you can! Thanks
Check your impeller. Maybe it started to break apart and a piece lodged in a bend in the engine. I hope not…
Looking to buy the large bimini top for a 2002 226′, prefer black or gray, anyone for sale?
I am looking at buying my first cobalt. It is a 1991 255. the only problem that has me worried is that around the ski storage you can feel the floor move! how big a problem is this or is it a common problem.
I have a 94 Cobalt 255, the ski storage area you mention doesn’t necessarily “move” in my case however I have noticed that it has a slight curve towards the middle that I have just noticed. If that is what you mean by moving then I’d say it’s probably just fine. Mine moves down a bit when someone steps right on the storage door.
Hello Boaters,
I have asked Rod this already but i thought i’d run it out to all ya’ll. i am looking to buy a used Cobalt (2004-2006) and am having a hard time deciding between a 262 or a 250. both are gonna have what i like, 496, over 25 feet, and walk thru stern. Can someone enlighten me on what else is differant?
and another topic… if both are same year, condition, hours, etc and were the same money, which one would be the better buy? (aka which one was more valuable when new, which one is more in demand right now?)
thanx for any help you can provide.
dc
Hi Dennis,
If the money was the same and all else being equal I would jump at the 262 hands down….OK…OK….I would even pay more for the 262!! The 262 is probably the best riding boat Cobalt ever produced….they have ever said it is one of those boats that fell into that perfect spot in the performance envelope where every parameter was spot on. All it takes is a ride to see the difference…it is silky smooth, quiet, fast, hand handles extremely well for a 26′ boat.
The 250 is also a great boat in itself….it’s just not a 262. It was designed as a less expensive version of the 262.
Hope that helps?
Ha-ha, I respectfully disagree! My 226 has the same motor but weighs ~1,000 lbs less! Now THAT is the “perfect spot in the performance envelope”! The thrust from say 30 mph to 55 is AWESOME! Yes the 226 is 4′ shorter, but has the same beam: How many stow-aways do want to bring along anyway?!!
Thanx Mr. Cooper. very informative. i had a hunch it was something like that.
dc
Hi, I have a 272 Cobalt year 1995,I need some help, please….the electric motor of the retracktable swim platform, doesn’t work , where I can find one, or how can I change it for a manual system ????
I had that problem. You can order it from Cobalt dealer. cost is terribly high. They are easy to install because you will get the entire actuator along with the motor.
Good Luck
Interested in buying a 2006 or 2007 20′Cobalt with low hours in TX/AR/ LA area. please give me a call 409-771-1033 if anyone has potential boat for me.
I have a 2002 Cobalt 226 w/ only 155 hrs. I am moving and sadly cannot take it with me. She has been pampered her whole life and is in pristine condition. I live east of Dallas, TX. I just listed it on boat trader but am taking all offers. Happy to make a deal. http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2002-Cobalt%20Boats-226-96305852.
Happy to send more info or pictures if you are interested. Call (214-499-5608) or email (patwilsonIV@gmail.com) me anytime.
Calling any and all current Cobalt owners in the DFW metroplex, would love to get tiogether at your favorite lake and have a gathering of these beautiful machines. If anyone is interested in doing so, please shoot me an email and lets see howmany folks we can get involved, can be any weekend, would love to see a calendar of events created for DFW and other areas where there is interest in doing so. Step up and lets go to the lake! We can compare water toys and just plain fun activities, if anyone has a parasail you know how much fun they can be, especially if you have some buds to help get it in the air! Let’s start a long standing tradition and create something all will be jealous of and be an example for others!
Enjoy!
Scott
scottjspidallas@msn.com
Info needed on 7.4 Volvo Outdrive Problem. Cobalt is a 252 – 2000 model, and just purchased recently from private owner. Noticed when I first took it out on the water, it makes a kind of grinding noise & vibration when turing in either direction, as well as when trying to trim out engine “up or down”. Seems to be getting worse as I use it. Have only took it out for about 1 hour; due to noise/vibration. Makes noise/vibration either going fast or slow, again when turning. When in neutral, you can rew the engine and engine sounds fine, but you can still hear and feel a little noise and viration going on from outdrive. Not sure if this is a U-Joint going bad, Drive Shaft Bearing needing grease, Bellows with a hole letting water in and grease out??? Any HELP would be greatly appreciated. Ralph
That is almost for sure a gymbal bearing going out…..have your drive pulled and the bearing checked.
Does anyone have any first hand information about a Cobalt 203CS. They are a direct-drive tournament style ski boat built in the late 1990’s. I am looking for anyone who has had experience with this boat…and anyone who might have one for sale. I’m located near Buffalo NY.
Any information is welcome.
Ken
I am looking for camper enclosures for a 1998 cobalt 293. Would any cobalt owners have those or a referral to have them made?
thanks.
Dan
Does Cobalt still make their Teak Oil? Where can I by it. I have E-Mailed three dealers, called Cobalt twice and E-mailed them twice with no response. What happened to Cobalts customer service?
The teak oil Cobalt supplies with the boat is just plain teak oil. You can go to any marine supply store a buy teak oil.
Just don’t over do it when you apply the oil…too much and it will turn into a sticky mess.
Cobalt made their own blend of teak oil at one time and it was far from plain old teak oil.
My factory rep gruffly told me it’s plain old teak oil.
I needhelp finding the letters “A” and “L” for the starboard, aft side of my 1995 Cobalt 200. When the town suddenly lowered the lake level my dock scrubbed off the letters.
Thanks
dick,
just contact your cobalt dealer – they can order the letters for you.
i had to replace the “C” on my 1996 253 – no problem.
The new letters have double stick tape on them for easy replacement.
I’m looking for a 21CC Classic. If anyone has one, or knows of someone with one, or locates one that is good condition and is for sale or would be willing to sell, I am interested. I very much prefer the classic hull style and am interested in the cuddy upgrade from my 19CD, closed deck.
Of course shipping is a major issue as I am in the PNW, so finding one in S. Florida would be prohibitive unless the condition is pristine and the price negligible.
James
James, being an avid Cobalt fan, I have discovered others with the same admiration, try this site, he seems to have figured out how to gather all new Cobalt posts throughout the internet and sent them to his site, very cool if you ask me! Here’s his site address- http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?itm=cobalt&cat=cpboat&fil=&pg=&state=&ys=&ye=
Good luck with your search, beautiful country the PNW I’m envious except for all that rain! LOL!
Scott
Thanks Scott. I’ll check it out. I’ve already found a 21′ in Reno and a 23′ L.A. through extensive Craigs list searching. Rain, what rain? Haven’t had rain in over 2 weeks, sunny and temps in the high 20s low 30s, c. A quick shot of the weather, with the boat out front(last summer unfortunately)
http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc1/jamsac/?action=view¤t=moms2ndride041-1.jpg
I have just purchased a unknown year cobalt boat all I have to go on is a hull number and deck number. If anybody can help me find out how I can find out what year and model this boat is I would greatly appreciate it.
The last 2 digits of the HIN denote the year, from there you can go here http://www.cobaltboats.com/contact/downloads.htm and match the model in the correct year brochure.
I am looking for upholstery for a 1998 190BR. I would like to replace everything. Cobalt no longer has the upholstery available for this vintage. Does anyone know of an aftermarket source for this upholstery?
Can anyone identify the model of this Cobalt boat? http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/boa/1210392812.html
I am new to boating, and am considering this for our first boat. Looking for as much info as I can find. Only has a 4 cyl, but I think that may be okay for our first boat. I am looking for a boat that will be reliable for at least 2-3 yr. At that point we can look for something newer, if we are using it regularly.
Well, I did buy this 16′ cobalt for our first boat. So far we have had lots of fun, but have also run into a few snags.. Seems the previous owner did not care for it very well, and I missed it when looking at the boat. We’ve had it out lots and have had a ton of fun, then last weekend it was running rough, and had less power… I opened it up and saw lots of H20 running down the side of the motor. Seems it was not winterized properly and there is a crack under the manifold in the block. Compression in all cylinders is ~130, and oil has NO water in it. I ground down the crack, made a V in it, and drilled both ends. Then applied epoxy to the crack. This is a Merc140, so it’s not a tremendous amnt of pressure there… hopefully it will hold for at least the rest of the season…
Hopefully we’ll be able to upgrade next year to a MUCH newer boat. Not likely to be a cobalt though.. too much $$ for my budget.
I just picked up a 1970 xv-200 in pretty good condition. Was curious about the history, plan to totally restore. Has original trailer. Looks just like the Donzi “sweet 16″. Has a straight 4 cyl. Any thought about the value of this cool boat?
I just bought a 1970 xv200. I read an old post in which you asked if anyone knew how much it was worth. I was wondering what you found out.
Mack
Can anyone tell me where I can get a Bimini top with stands for my 1993 Coablt 198. I have the convertable top that came with the boat but I would like to get the bimini for shade. thanks for your help
Can anyone tell me where I can get a Bimini top with stands for my 1993 Coablt 198. I have the convertable top that came with the boat but I would like to get the bimini for shade. thanks for your help
Reply
Does anyone agree that the little transom doors that are like 12″ tall are basically useless? I’m not even sure they’d stop an infant, & they definitely don’t stop stuff that’s blowing around in the boat, i.e. my HAT!). My dealer called them “Lawsuit Doors” or something like that, as in Cobalt’s lawyers (or maybe insurance company?) told them they had to install them. They’re so short they seem to be useless. I’m thinking about removing mine to get it out of the way & just sticking it in my closet. I’ll just re-install it whenever I sell it.
i completely agree. when i first got the boat i thought it was cool but it is useless and it rattles at speed. i will look into removal soon. thanks for that idea. joe
I went ahead and removed mine like I said. Awesome! Very nice & free to walk thru now without ever having to move the door! I even removed the two little side door jambs (2 screws each); The silicone caulk was NO FUN to remove with my fingernails.
EDIT: I just realized my 226′s little transom door, which I have now removed, may have the job of stopping waves/ water from coming over the rear platforms & into either the cabin area or the engine compartment, or both. Now, I boat in very calm rivers & lakes, so it doesn’t matter to me, but it could to others I think.
We are looking to purchase a 2002 Cobalt 226. It has all of the features that we are looking for, plus more!!!! I fell in love with this boat when I saw it. However, it has 338 hours on the engine and my boyfriend is really concerned about this. My answer was “It’s a Cobalt!”
What do you guys think? Would you be concerned about the hours?
Cobalt’s are awesomely made! And so are most boat motors/ engines these days. But the engine’s total hours don’t really tell the whole story; It depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it, whether or not they performed maintenance, changed oil, etc. You really should have it inspected by a certified boat mechanic, who needs to do among other things a cylinder pressure/ leak test, which will tell you alot about the engine’s wear and how much of its life is gone. That said, I LOVE my 226! I’m a huge fan of boats in general, and every time I boat I keep my eyes open for other nice boats, including ones that might be better than mine: So far there is no better boat than mine, regardless of cost! Red 2007 Cobalt 226 with a Merc 8.1L 496 Mag 375 hp.
One other thing to mention is that Cobalt does not manufacture the engines or stern drives they put in their boats. Find out exactly what models this boat has and do some research into those for reliability and commonly occuring problems.
anyone tell me how much a stored immaculate 1998 233 with 236 hrs is worth?
1999 233 bought in 2009 for $17.5 with 85 hours on it. 7.4L GXI duo-prop, dual battery, bimini, cockpit cover, custom bow cover, custom full cover, dual-axle Eagle custom trailer, porto-potty, fresh water transom shower, am/fm cd player. Fresh water boat. Everything practically mint. Ended up replacing batteries because they were small and one was old. Put about 1000 in general maintenance in to it (impeller, oil change, out drive serviced, etc…). I’d factor that in to any used boat buy, and depending on the maintenance history could help you bargain price. Definitely love the boat though!
Come on in, the water is fine!
I have a 1979 19 BR w/ a merc. 260. When I grt ready to put my boat into the water I am having problems lowering my stern. When I push the down button it starts to click. So far I have been able to eventually lower my unit. Does anyone out their know what might be causing this?
I was having the same problem w/ my ’79 Cobalt 18TH. It would randomly get stuck in up. The only solution I have found is to not raise the stern all the way up and when raising or lowering, it is imperative that you do it in small increments.
For now, to get it down, have someone ready to help you. Loosen the three bolts that hold the quadrant gear to the upper gear case housing. Once loosened, have a buddy hold on to the stern drive and jiggle it up and down while you lower it with the switch. This should jar it loose. Once it does, tighten the three bolts and just remember to never raise it all the way up.
Hello everybody, i own a cobalt 226 and we tested everything out, put it in the water….Now it doesnt start SOMETIMES, like after 5m we can start it but the other day we shut it off then couldnt get it to start, we will probably get it to a dealer soon but any ideas like loose wires or something? oh and there is like a little play in the throttle when we put it in neutral(Straight up)killswitch is also on…Idk whats wrong..
1983 Cobalt 19′ bowrider, xlnt cond for age, AQ260A/280 Volvo Penta w/ less than 300 hrs,
no salt, tandem trailer
This boat is very clean throughout, all the teak is very nice and the Engine is extremely clean. I’ve got them down to 5000.00 but I’d prefer to pay less. Do you think this is a good deal and worth the purchase. The first owner was a boat mechanic and babied the boat. Thanks for the help
Sounds like a good deal to me at $5K. Look at Cobalts & even other brands with similar specs/ engine/ condition, etc. on eBay. You don’t usually seem to get much of a boat for $5K.
Sounds not bad, but not wanting to disagree with Jeff, in todays market you can get almost any boat under 24′, no matter how good the condition, for under $5000. Nothing is moving. Now having said that, I don’t know from where you are writing, but any of the Cobalts from the ’80s that I have seen sold in the US have been under $6000, and most under $4500. I am currently negotiating on a gorgeous ’87 23′ Condesa in Michigan that will likely go for $4500.
I just purchased the 2001 Cobalt 206 advertised on this website. This is my first Cobalt and I love the boat! I have a concern about the steering, however. When crusing straight down the lake, the steering has about 10 degrees of play, left to right. Is this normal? If not, is there an adjustment to take out the play? Thanks in advance for any help!
Jim
Update: I talked to the dealer in Dallas and they said the play in the steering is normal. I also expressed concern that the steering wheel did not point straight ahead when going straight down the lake. They also said this is normal and that the position of the wheel would vary with speed. My steering is smooth otherwise so I guess I should not be concerned. Any feedback from other boat owners would be appreciated.
Jim
By the way, I have the Volvo 5.7 GSI DP if that makes any difference.
Jim,
I just bought a 2000 Cobalt 206. What an awesome boat!!! I have no play where you describe yours. I have the Bravo 3 out drive. I can’t help with the fix but at least you know it is not normal.
Good luck and enjoy that awesome machine.
Joe
I just purchased a 2000 Cobalt 246. It came with an in dash humminbird depth sounds that goes off constantly. The previous owner did not have the manual and I can not find a match on Humminbird site. The Cobalt brochre and owners manual didinot provide specifi model info either. Anyone have a pdf of the manual or know how to set it up properly? Thanks
I wonder if anyone might be able to give me a bit of advice…
I have a 2000 226 with a Volvo 5.7 DP. I am getting a pretty stead drip inside the boat, that lets in approximately 2-3 gallons in an hour. When i spoke with my mechanic, he seemed to think that it was probaly theseal between the y-pipe and the transome (plate?). He indicated that the motor would have to come out to replace. Is this a common problem?
after speaking to him I have sinced noticed that the shift from neutral to drive/reverse is getting pretty stiff. Could the leak be related to the shift problem?
Thanks for any help!
Hi,
My wife and I recently bought our red, 2003, 262 (on the hm page) and named her “Reddy or Knot”, and would enjoy chatting with her prior owner(s). She was originally ordered by someone with a place on Lk Chelan here in WA who orders them in red with many upgrades and a lgr engine (496 HO, 425 hp B3) his/her 2006 is for sale at SBC now and I guess he/she currently owns a 302… anyone know the boat? Its probably on Lk Chelan.
Thanks – Casey
I have a 1987 17BR. The main circuit breaker on the dash panel has begun to pop. The faster I go, the sooner it pops. The dealer suggested replacing the circuit breaker which had some corrosion but he did not know the rating of the breaker. He sold me a 20 Amp breaker and the popping stopped but I’m afraid it’s because the breaker may be too high. Does anyone know what the amperage should be? Any thoughts on what components may be causing the circuit breaker to pop if it isn’t the 22 year old breaker?
I have a ’78 CD and it does the same thing when the engine is running and I run the blower and bilge pump. Sorry I have no solutions. One question, did the breaker from the dealer match esthetically with the others?
James,
The circuit breaker looks the same. The new one is marked with the amperage but the old one was not. I contacted the breaker manufacturer and they didn’t know how to tell the amperage. Their current products are marked. The wire going into the breaker is 12 gauge and I see sites on the internet that say 12 gauge wire corresponds to a 20 amp breaker.
Joe
Hey Joe,
Who is the manufacturer? I may be interested in replacing the breaker before I sell the boat this spring.
James
James,
I’m not sure how to link a reply on this forum to your question but hopefully you’ll find this. I have the old breaker in front of me. It is an ETA series 1658. I don’t know what brand the Cobalt dealer in Queensbury NY sold me and it’s too cold to go out and crawl under the dash to check. http://www.e-t-a.com/us_thermal+M568ecfd7393.html?&type=98 It comes in 5 to 30 amps.
Joe
Thanks, I got the link.May have to check it out.
James
I’m looking for a bimini top (or just frame) for a 1996 232. Any help?
220 cobalt 2003 for sale 173 hours. Used on Lake Charlevoix. In Boyne City, Michigan. Factory Maintained. Stored on covered shore station and in private storage condominium. White/yellow. 300 hp mercury Bravo 3 extras/loaded in excellent condition plus trailer $34,750
Call 810-695-1857
248-310-6206 cell
Where can someone find specs on an OLD Cobalt? I am curious how much my boat weighs? I have a 1971 16′ Cobalt bowrider with Merc 140 in it. I am trying to get a ballpark of what it weighs….
TIA!
Ok, I promise I looked around before posting this.. but as soon as I did I found something on iboats.
http://www.iboats.com/Cobalt_Boats__16_Tri-Hull__1971/bp/64b20998r1
Says ~2300 lbs dry.
Take it by a place with vehicle weigh scales, like a landfill. Offer the guy 5 bucks to weigh it for you.
I’m looking at a 2005 Cobalt 226, but it doesn’t come with a trailer. Any ideas on where to find one? Does anyone have a 226 – if so, what kind of trailer are you using? We found a great deal on an awesome boat and we just need to find a trailer.
Any ideas?
Sara
I have an ’06 226 with an ’07 Heritage trailer (www.heritagetrailers.com). I think they’re probably expensive (mine came with the boat), but it is one very nice trailer. Mine’s a painted steel model which can rust in salt water; If you boat in salt water you’ll probably want either galvanized steel or better yet aluminum. There are lots of places that make those: ezloader.com, venturetrailers.com, magictilt.com. The 226′s dry weight is listed at 3,865 small block motor/ 4,171 big block.
So Paul Paolillo – it’s a year later. How is the boat’s finish holding up? I’m intrigued by your idea for cleaning up the boat, but a little nervous. Are you still happy with the results?
I need some advice. I’m prepare to purchase a new Cobalt. I’m going to by a 2008-9 242 with a Merc 496 or Volvo 8.1. (375 hp) I’m debating about ordering a “closed cooling system” Logic tells me that it’s better to run clean coolant through and engine rather than dirty lake water (oh, yeah. I’m ONLY going to run this boat in “fresh” water. After all, I live in Indiana.) But I’ve had many people tell me that the closed cooling system is not worth the money and it’s not necessary. Even a Cobalt dealer told me this! I also realize that fresh water has been used to cool engines for decades.
So my question: Is a closed cooling system really worth the investment if I’m not going to use it in salt water?
(We can have the debate about the which engine later.)
I have no experience with the Volvo but my boat does have a closed cooling system. You’re in fresh water, but let’s say in five years you put the boat up for sale. Someone from Florida calls and asks if it has a closed cooling system. You say no, he cannot buy your boat. Or let’s say you take it to Seattle and you want to go through the locks in the Puget Sound. Oops, no closed cooling system. If you know for absolute certain that you’ll never sell it, to someone who is in salt water, and that you’ll never want to take it into salt water, skip it. Otherwise, get it.
Well, I answered my own question. After discussing with my dealer, I’m leaning towards the Merc 496. That engine includes a closed cooling package. So problem solved. Thanks for the input.
I guess I’m going to be another dealer that will tell you to forget FWC if your only going to be in fresh water.
It would be a waste of money.
Does anyone know where I can get a good quality bimini top for my ’96 Cobalt 253?
Taylor Made (www.taylormadeproducts.cc) and West Marine (www.westmarine.com) are two. Or contact Cobalt directly (www.cobaltboats.com)
I have a 1996 190BR I’m looking for a speedometer pitot. The West Marine do not fit and I do not like to drill extra holes.
Any ideas ?
Lower ladder replacement?
The lower rung of my ladder snapped off when I was beached on an island. Anyone know where/how to replace this? I have a 2001, 190 but I think it’s the same ladder across a number of models.
Bill,
I have a complete ladder, if you will pay for the shipping…… it’s yours, let me know. My direct email address is scottjspidallas@msn.com
Sincerely,
Scott James
hello
im new on this forum….
I am a Cobalt dealer in Austin, TX. I can answer many questions regarding the boats, and if you are in my are, and looking for a nice used Cobalt, there are a few to be had. I am not trying to SPAM, just offering free advice, unless someone in Austin is interested in a boat, and I will help out if possible. Good luck to everyone!
Daron,
Are you with Boattown? I posted yesterday that I recently purchased a 2007 Cobalt 232. I had Boattown change the oil and do a quick check. I also had them check the “growling” sound when I place the drive (volvo) in neutral. As long as it is engaged, forward or reverse, no growl. They topped off the drive fluid, but said everything else was normal. I’ve looked for lose parts that might be rattling on the swim platform, but nothing. Second, my instrument lights are very, very faint. Is this by design or am I likely missing a bulb or adjustment.
Thanks in advance for the assistance,
D
I just found out that over the winter someone broke into storage and stole my stero,telescoping aft light and the emblems from both sides and the L and T. I can replace stero locally but where can I find light and insignas besides cobalt? They are outragous on their procing.
Thanks for any help,
Paul
I have a 2004 220 and have had to replace the oil pressure sensor a total of 3 times because all have been deemed “faulty”. Whenever I experience a problem with it, the warning alarm sounds (about every 2 seconds), but the engine does not go into ‘safety mode’ (where it will not allow you to throttle up to more than a few hundred RPM’s). Has anyone else had a problem with this/know what could be making the sensor activate unneccesarily?
It could be unrelated, but we have had problems with this engine before due to water that inevitably drips into the engine compartment whenever the hatch is opened. For such a “well thought out” boat that is made by a company that claims to have the best design on the water, it was extremely dissapointing when we stopped dead in the water a few seasons back because the engine’s electrical coil had been corroded by water leaking into the engine compartment each time the hatch was opened. Please tell me I’m not the only one familiar with this unavoidable problem!
Email me directly and I will send you the Figure pictures.
The process detailed below is how to winterize an I/O Stern drive and engine. The parts will depend on the size of one’s engine. I have a 2000 Cobalt 253 with a 7.4 L GM Big Block engine. Frankly, I was tired of paying a mechanic $300-400 for a task that was not very hard. Time it takes is about 2 hours, and the parts the first year cost roughly $250. The oil extractor was 40$, the hand pump was $15, and the Oil, fogger, and 2 filters were $75 the gear lube was $9 a qt, and the coolant was $30 for a case. Again, all of which totaled about $250, but I bought enough for 2 seasons. Once you have the equipment the cost should be about $100 a season. Any questions, I can be contacted directly at paul.paolillo@earthlink.net, good luck and all the best.
Paul
Winterization Process
1) Change Oil: Review Figure 1
a. Get an oil pump extractor, Figure 8.
b. Via the engine yellow tipped dip-stick, connect one end of the oil pump extractor hose directly to the dip-stick on the engine, Figure 1.
c. Pump the oil pump extractor handle a few times (10-12) to create a vacuum. The oil will start to flow into the container.
d. Drain all oil from the engine (estimated time: 15 minutes to pump it out)
e. Once the oil seems to be drained, then unscrew the oil filter, Figure 1 (Location: top-right side of engine).
f. As the oil filter loosens, the engine may now have excess oil in the pan, perform step b to ensure as much of the old oil is removed.
g. With all oil out of the engine, re-apply a new oil filter, not forgetting to lube the bottom filter gasket before beginning to screw back on.
h. Tighten filter just passed “Hand tight”
i. Fill engine with correct quantity of specified oil (Check engine manual for oil capacities w/filter)
j. Run engine for 5 minutes so that the engine is warm.
2) Fuel Tank Preparation
a. Add fuel stabilizer to fuel tank
b. Run engine for 10-15 minutes so that the engine is warm, then turn off engine (Note: Always closely monitor engine operating temperatures, for proper impellor cooling water pump supply operation. Do not operate above 1200 RPM on garden-hose adaptor, Figure 2).
3) Engine Water Cooling System Preparation (Lower Unit)
a. One has to get creative for this next part. Some people use a garbage bucket, I like using a modified gasoline container.
b. Modified gasoline container method to fit a Stern drive intake garden hose adapter: Figure 2: Recommendation is to use a 44357Q2 QUICKSILVER OUTBOARD FLUSH KIT.
i. Using a 5 gallon unused/brand new red gasoline container fill it with winterization fluid (Marine grade anti-freeze, normally pink in color).
ii. Take a piece of 4 foot garden hose and secure one end of garden hose to the output of the gasoline container, yes one may have to cut the hose so it can slide into the container. It is best to tighten the hose directly onto the gasoline container’s screw cap threads to create basic a vacuum seal.
iii. Once secure, then take the other end of the garden hose and connect it to the boat’s stern drive lower unit water intake using a cooling flush-kit, commonly called rabbit ears. (Location: The water pick-up ports on a stern drive and outboard are both located on each side of the lower unit gearcase).
iv. Then set the gasoline container filled with cooling fluid up high, a rear swim platform works great.
v. Get into the boat.
4) Engine Water Cooling System Preparation (Engine Block: Figure 1)
a. At the engine, and one at a time, disconnect the cooling hoses at the engine main intake (Location: Top- Front, single point where all hoses are connected together).
b. Again, remove top of hose and then direct hose downward, so that all water drains out of the hose. Then reconnect all hoses.
c. Added precaution: Figure 5 one can further elect to remove and drain water from all accessible drain plugs on the engine block, there should be 4. Note: Use a high-temp silicone to coat the mating surface thread to truly have a seal between the brass freeze plug and the wall of the engine.
5) Winterizing the water pump
a. (This is a two-person job) With the cooling hoses reconnected one person start the engine and let it run. At the same time the boat engine is running, the second person is watching the 5 gallon gasoline container filled with pink coolant, once the container is 2/3rd empty tell the engine operator to turn off the engine.
b. (Note: This procedure is for a fuel injected engine, 7.4 L MPI GM Big Block, for if one has a carburetor, instead of turning off the engine once 2/3rd of the coolant is out of the gasoline container, use a can of fogging spray (Figure 3), and spray it directly into the air-intake, continuously spray until the engine chokes itself off, then follow step c.)
c. Your boat engine should never be turned on again until next season.
d. Continuing the coolant process, and at the engine hose intake center point, Figure 1 (thermostat housing if you have one), one at a time, remove the top most connection and dump a little downward, don’t drain it, just splash it and see if it is pink in color.
e. If it is, and it should be, upright the hose so one can pour more fluid into it. Meaning, take a funnel stick it into the hose and pour continuously pink coolant into the hose until it is full, then reconnect the end of the hose to the engine’s intake.
f. Repeat this step with all hoses coming of the main intake (**Important Note: the water pump is the key, and there is only one hose that comes off the water pump, so that hose must pour out pink coolant with the engine off, pour out just enough to see that it is pink, don’t let it drain all out. The other hoses can be dry, if they are dry (meaning empty) just fill them up with pint coolant until they are fill) until all hoses are full of pink coolant. Estimated 5-6 gallons of pink coolant is needed.
6) Replace the Water/fuel separator Filter
a. Remove the water/fuel separator filter from the engine (Looks very similar to an oil filter location: mid-left side of engine, just beneath the alternator. (Note: Be careful this container maybe filled with fuel, no smoking at this point).
b. Locate the new water/fuel separator filter and turn upside down, so it will act as a cup and hold fluid.
c. Using a can of CRC Fogging oil, directly spray CRC fluid into the water/fuel separator filter until it is full, but not overflowing. Then reattach the filler to the circulator pump housing.
7) Optional: Change the lower unit Gear Oil
Finalize Engine for Storage
a. Go to Stern drive and locate the lower unit drain plug, unscrew it and let the oil drain down into an oil pan, Figure 4.
b. Once the oil is stopped draining, then unscrew the upper unit drain plug at the top of the stern drive, then more should come out.
c. Once all oil is out prepare 3-4 qts of gear lube oil
d. Figure 6: Using a lower unit hand pump attach the pump side to the individual qt of gear lube, for it will screw on. Still Figure 6, and then, take the other side of the pump which looks like a thin plastic tube with a plastic screw head, and screw it directly into the lower unit drain plug location.
e. Figure 7: Setup, the Figure 6 hand pump is connected to the qt bottle and screwed into the lower unit drain plug screw location. And, the upper unit screw is not screwed in, most likely sitting on the ground.
f. Then begin pumping the gearlube into the lower unit, continue pumping until the gear lube started draining out of the upper unit screw location.
g. Then screw back in the upper unit drain plug, figure 4. Be careful not to mix up the upper and lower drain plugs, one can tell them apart because one is smaller shorter than the other, some stern drives do use the same drain plug for both which is nice.
h. Once the upper drain plug is tightly emplace, **Quickly unscrew/disconnect the hand pump and reinsert and tighten the lower unit drain plug. Note: It is ok if some gear lube falls out during the switch.
i. From inside the boat’s engine compartment, continue to refill the gear lube tank. (Engine Location: Top-right side, behind the oil filter, see figure 1)
a. Using a can of Quicksilver corrosive preventer spray, simply spray down the entire engine, metal, hoses, and wires.
b. Optional: One may use a damp area reducer to be located in the engine compartment; this will prevent one’s engine compartment carpeting from mildew.
9) Completed
Figure 2: 44357Q2 QUICKSILVER OUTBOARD FLUSH KIT
Figure 3: CRC Engine Stor Fogging Oil
16 Ounce Aerosol Spray
Brand: CRC
Selling U/M: EA
Weight: 2.0000 lbs
Price: $3.99
Figure 4: Gearcase drain plug for gear oil.
Figure 5: Freeze Plug
Figure 6: Lower Unit Gear Lube Pump
Figure 7: Lower Unit Setup
Figure 8: Oil extractor
I am looking at a 1994 Cobalt 198 with a Volvo V6 with a penta.Does anyone have any experiences with this boat.Does it run out ok.Looks like alot of boat for a V6.I will pull a skier and a tube.Thanks for your help.
272 Cobalt— looking to purchase Cobalt 272 (’94-2000 model only)
email or preferably just call me at (713) 529-8681 if you have one to sell me.
I’ve got a 2007 Cobalt 232. I bought it used about 2 months ago and have a couple of question. First, I’ve noticed a “growling” sound when I place the drive (volvo) in neutral. As long as it is engaged, forward or reverse, no growl. I had the dealer check it and they couldn’t find anything. I’ve looked for lose parts that might be rattling on the swim platform, but nothing. Second, my instrument lights are very, very faint. Is this by design or am I likely missing a bulb or adjustment.
Thanks in advance for the assistance,
D
I have a 1979 Cobalt 191 CD.
There is a bumping on the floor in front of my feet when hitting the waves.
Is there something underneath that could be loose ?
Hi BoB,
I have a ’78 and am just finishing putting in a new floor. There is a void between bulkheads where your feet would be. So if your are feeling movement or flexing I would have a look under the floor. You should be able to access through the infloor cooler, or on your ’79 through the ski locker. I had had water intrusion through the screw holes that hold the teak on the deck, and through the well that the windshield goes into and small leaks at the outer corners of the windshield, it went down onto the floor under the deck and through the floor at the screws that mount the foot boards to the floor. The whole area under the seats forward to the first bulkhead from the bow was affected, along with 3 bulkheads and 2 stringers.
I’d stick my head down into that locker, and even see what parts can be removed to allow you to see in that entire area.
Good luck,
James
James,
Thanks for yor reply. I am not sure how to get past the floor in the ski locker to look underneath. How would I remove the ski locker to look underneath?
Do you have a picture of the what it looks like under the floor ?
Sorry to take so long to reply. It looks sort of like this under the floor;
[IMG]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc1/jamsac/boatrepair002Medium.jpg[/IMG]
James
James,
I have been bracing the floor on my 17BR around the ski locker door and I should replace it. How difficult was it to remove the floor? Do you have instructions that you follow?
Joe
Joe,
Only difficult in the sense that it is a fair bit of labour. The deck is 1/2-3/4 in plywood stapled and glued to the stringers and bulkheads, then glassed over and interior parts laid in over that.
I had to virtually gut the interior then cut the glass around the perimeter where it joins the hull sides and then try to shovel out the rotted parts and pry like hell on the sound parts to get down to where I could replace the rotten underpinnings.
I am a millwright by trade and used to such work, it just took a fair bit of time.
As can be seen in the pic., and more if you desire, I removed all of the unsound wood I could reach leaving as much of the sound glass as possible,then cut and fitted new pieces from 3/4′ G1S ply., coated them with epoxy, let it dry, coated them and the sides/insides of the compartments they were to fit into, fitted them in (generally meant tapping a fair bit as I made them tight), clamped the sides of the ‘sheath’ of glass and let it dry. I then glassed over and around all the unglassed areas to seal it all in securely. I put as many as 5 coats of resin onto the repaired areas to bond it as homogenously to the existing structure as I could. I then did the similar procedure to secure the floor. Most of the floor id 1/2′ with areas doubled and tripled for seats etc. I cut the floor in 3 section, fitted, cut fitted, cut until they would just drop into the correct orientation then epoxied both sides and the edges. When I put them in I epoxied the top edges of the mating stringers and bulkheads and the corresponding areas on the underside of the floor then dropped them into place and screwed them down with plated drywall screws. I then filled any gaps/voids, as along the edges mating to the hull sides with copious epoxy then glassed over the whole mess again using several coats of resin to strengthen and smooth ready for the carpet applied with waterproof exterior carpet glue.
Any questions just drop a message, I’ll keep checking regularly.
James
I have a 233 from 1997. I need to replace the steering wheel as the base of the wheel is “cracking.”
Anyone able to offer suggestions about obtaining a new wheel? Cost of a new wheel? Thanks.
Dan
We just bought a ’99 252 that has not been cared for. Big problem is the wood dash is faded. Is this an overlay that we can just peel off? Anybody had any luck refinishing the dash?
Hi All. Im a new Cobalt owner, recently purchasing a 2009 Cobalt 210. I couldnt be happier with the boat but ran into someone that was trying to tell me that Chris Craft makes a higher quality boat? I hadnt done any research on Chris Craft expect hearing they went bankrupt back in 2000? How does Cobalt quality compare with Chris Craft?
Hogwash!
OK, now you OWN a Cobalt, and you’re having to ask this? Look around & poke around on your 210 … Could a boat actually BE better built? No!
Jeff– I couldnt agree with you more. I researched the Cobalt for almost 4 years before I pulled the trigger! Im just looking for someone that knows about Chris Crafts so I can throw some shit back in my friends face.. LOL!
I also looked at Chris Crafts before buying my Cobalt 226. There’s not really any shit you can throw at ‘em, but they seem like preppy boats to me. I think they’re over-priced for what you get compared to a Cobalt. A lo of their models seem to be more single-purpose than all of Cobalt’s models, such as single seats for 4 people with a big engine (sometimes, not always) and no room to actually move or walk around. Cobalts are the best-designed, best laid-out and tip-top-quality boats, and you pay A LOT to get that, and most everybody knows it. Chris Crafts are tip-top-quality boats, and you pay EVEN MORE to get that, and most everybody knows it!
Chris Craft says to me, “I spent more than I had to to get a lesser boat.” My 2 cents.
Your best bet to match a original interior is to go to a custom shop and have them do it for you. I have also heard of Cobalt sometimes being able to at least get the material for you, but you would have to have a dealer look into that I have seen this done where you cannot tell the difference. If you want a really nice 1982, check out http://www.paboatshop.com. They are helping a customer sell his 190br. I do not know the details, but know the owner is very open to offers.
Have a 2003 282 in immaculate condition for sale. Twin 350′s. Very nice. Looking for a 302 with 496′s.
Hi All -
I just purchased a 2005 200 Cobalt. A couple of questions…..
1. What products do you recommend to protect the gel coat? I have heard that 3M products are the best followed by Meguiars. Thoughts?
2. What would cause the tilt gauge on the dash from not working? The gauge points to the “UP” position even when the engine is down in the water
Thanks,
Jeff Clark
I just bought my first boat. It is a 1971 cobalt inboard outboard 140 hp engine. It runs very well. The paint is faded and the carpet needs to be replaced. The seats are original but look brand new. It was well taken care of, kept in the garage or covered when in the lake. I live in Clovis Ca. I would like to have the boat painted but Ido not want to pay an arm and a leg. I called Maaco but they do not paint boats. Any suggestions where I could go for a paint job for no more than $1000?
Does anyone know if their are any problems using 10% ethanol gas in our Cobalts?
I know the performance suffers a bit but I recently heard the ethanol eats the fiberglass tank. T or F? Thanks
Fiberglass tank?? Fuel tank?? You don’t have fiberglass fuel tank! You need to check with either Mercury Marine or Volvo (whichever engine you have) to find out.
I have a 1999 293 and the windshield frame was rechromed and is completely corroded. Does anyone know of where I may purchased a used frame that I may re-chrome or powdercoat?
I have a 1988 223 it has a mercury power shift unit on her. Do I need to get a specific engine control that will mate up with the mercury power shift unit ?
I purchased a teleflex CH7500 and I did not see any where on the unit to bolt up the m.p.s. cable
I just purchased a 1990 21 cc and was wondering if anyone knew
where i could get info or purchase the convertible / camper top for it.
thanx for any response
I have a 2003 Cobalt 240 that I keep in the northeast – I just hauled her and the gauges had some moisture inside them (foggy)
Is this normal – or should I take corrective action?
Hi Paul,
This is a common question…..it is normal to see fog in the gauges. They are designed to let moisture in and out….they will clear themselves.
We have a two year old 272. This summer was the first time we left it in a slip, fresh water lake. Big Mistake. We recently removed the boat from the lake and are struggling with getting the white hull clean again. The water stains will not come off with everything we have tried, keeping in mind we are not using anything abbrasive because we don’t want to damage the gelcoat. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Yep, just used FSR (Fiberglass Stain Remover) yesterday on my Cobalt 343 and it works like a charm!
Thank you for the suggestion. We will try to find some and give it a shot!
Use FSR it’s this blue goo but it takes those stains off the white waterline easily
apply then wash off after you use it
be careful with your hands too
p
Bought the FSR. Thank you for the suggestion. Now looking to find something to put on hull prior to putting in the water so the muck doesnt stick to it at all. Seems I saw something about a product but cannot remember what it is called to save my life. Would appreciate suggestion.
I just purchased a 1988 Cobalt 21BR with a Merc. 5.7L. Can anyone help me with a complete description of how to winterize this boat. Any step by step and or pic would be great. And maybe what to look for items. Thank You!!
Need new running/flag light pole for my 360, any help?
Thanks, Tom McArthur
St. Louis area
Thought I might be able to buy on line a little cheaper
I have been looking online alot and have been unable to find one. If you locate a site please let me know. Cobalt wants about $370 for one.
Thanks,
Paul
I clean the lake scum off with muriatic acid and water about 10%. It cost $3.00 follow-up with acitrus cleaner.
Did all older 17″ Cobalt bowriders have teak doors to close off bow section from cockpit??
Does anyone know where you can purchase used or rebuilt trim cylinders for Volvo outdrives????
Hello Cobalt owners!
I hope to buy a cobalt soon and am looking at a 272 – gorgeous boat and I am trying to find the perfect day boat/recreation boat. Is the 272 toobig to ski behind? We are not fanatical skiers but like to slalom ski and pull kids etc. Any input would be appreciated!
best regards
Bill
In my opinion the 272 is too big to ski behind, unless you don’t mind skiing outside the wake most of the time, as the wake is going to be pretty darn large and turbulent. Tubing will be OK, but still pretty rough. I tubed behind a 27′ boat just one time (granted it was a Mariah). It was a very rough tube ride, and even kinda of intimidating; I could only imagine how skiing would’ve gone. I thought skiing and tubing were supposed to be fun?! Now, I’m sure the hard core people out there disagree and would love it, just not me. I’d imagine some parents would see the wake and say “I’m not lettin’ MY kid out there!” You can try to compromise by going slower, which will make the wake taller, or by going faster which will bring down the wake height but make the inside of the wake even more turbulent; Neither are very good for skiing, especially slalom skiing. Wakeboarders may love a nice, slow ride though, with a huge wake. Bottom line: You can do it, but for skiing smaller, lighter boats are better.
Hey Bill. I have a 2002 Cobalt 226 with only 155 hrs. I am moving and sadly cannot take it with me. She has been pampered her whole life and is in pristine condition. I live east of Dallas, TX. I just listed it on boat trader but am taking all offers. Happy to make a deal. http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2002-Cobalt%20Boats-226-96305852.
Happy to answer any questions or send more info and pictures if you are interested. Call (214-499-5608) or email (patwilsonIV@gmail.com) me anytime. Pat.
We have a 272 and absolutely love it! We use it to ski and pull the kids around. The key is to order a longer rope. The way is big but if you get a bit more distance from it is does very well.
Jeff! Many thanks for your comments! It is hard to find the right size of boat to both ski behind and party on..I may have to look at something smaller perhaps.
Best regards
Bill
I have a 1979 19BR that is having a problem of stalling. It runs great for about an hour. When I power down after an hour and then put it in gear in the foward or reverse postion it stalls. This is a real problem when I’m trying to put it on my trailer. The next day it runs fine for about an hour and then it starts the whole process over. I have noticed that the engine temp is high when I go and try to start it after it has stalled I have also noticed that when the water tempature drops in the fall I do not have any problems. I have been letting the engine idel for about 5 minutes before I shut it off to lower the engine temp. I think it may be the water pump. Does this sound right or is it something else?
Chris,
This is a condition common to older Mercs. It has to do with misadjustment and wear of the throttle cable and the ignition interupt switch, that you should find on top of the engine in front of the distributor. The switch momentarily interupts the ignition to allow smooth shifting out of neutral. There is a web site with a good explanation of how to diagnose and adjust the switch, really quite straight forward actually. I have the web site on my other laptop that is in the shop right now being healed. You should be able to get it by Googling something like ‘mercruiser ignition shift interupt’ etc. I have/had the same issue with my ’78 19CD. (wish I had the Volvo).
Good luck,
James
It sounds like vapor lock,your carb.is getting to hot,turning your fuel into vapor to soon creating a gas lock, make sure your cooling system is in good shape. change the the thermostat(2 bolts).Pull off a couple of cooling hoses and have a look inside the engine,and see how much corrosion.You could have scale build-up causing bad water flow in your water jackets.If this is the case you need a good cooling system flush to clean out those ports and jackets. Brian
http://www.sterndrives.com/shiftinteruptorswitchkits.html
Sounds like your $5.00 condensor in your distributor cap is going out. Same thing happen to me last summer. Any auto parts store has it. Need to replace points at the same time. Just like old points and condensor on old cars.
Is anyone interested in buying a stainless top for a Cobalt 343. Email me for pictures.
My local Cobalt dealer has a 2005 and a 2006 Cobalt 24SX for sale. The 24SX model seems pretty “unique”, at least for Cobalt, and apparently was only manufactured by Cobalt for two years. The boats seem to be reasonably priced but I am concerned that the 24SX is a “white elephant” that could be hard to resale.
Any thoughts?
No experience with them here, but I’ve seen the layout and would agree, probably hard to sell.
We looked at a 24sx last year. It had everything we wanted and was a gorgeous boat. It was also a great price. All in all, though, we thought we would be buying an “orphan” and didn’t buy. We bought a 262 instead and love that boat!
I’m buying a humminbird fishfinder for my 17BR and I’d rather have a shoot through the hull transducer so that I don’t have to worry about the thing breaking off the transom. The specs say it only will work on a single layer fiberglass hull. I emailed Cobalt twice but they won’t answer me. Does anyone know if the 17BR hull is single layer or double layer or what? Any opinions on the shoot through the hull vs. transom mount transducer?
Hello,
I am looking at buying a 2000 226 with the 8.2 GSI. Does anyone know what the approximate top speed would be on this boat?
Thanks
My ’07 226 has a Mercruiser 496 Mag (375 HP duo prop) & 63 mph is the highest shown on the speedo.
Hello:
I have been having issues with a mechanic attempting to damage my Cobalt boat because I wasn’t willing to pay him the ridiculous price of $75/day for a trailer rental. I need to get some type of lock to be able to lock my engine compartment. The lock would prevent the engine compartment from being able to be opened. Does anyone know of a source I might obtain that from? A third party source? I have a Cobalt 206. I believe it would have to be something I modify and that might not be attractive. A pad lock might need to be involved. Does anyone have any thoughts?
Cindy,
FYI a price of $75 per day may not be so out of line depending on the boat length.
Did you know that the quoted rental from U-HAUL for a simple 5′ by 8′ open top box cargo trailer is $380 for a 6 day trip ???
Paul
Does anyone know what were the most popular Cobalt models or lengths over the past ten years? What were the most popular Cobalt models or lengths more recently?
I have a Cobalt 253, First real full size boat I have owned…. Any pointers on care/storage/tricks? I am looking for side windows/camper top for my bimini top too, it already has zippers for them.
Seattle Area.
Thanks!
~Scott
Hi Scott,
The 253 is a great boat! I just sold mine a year ago….still miss it. I did a full custom convertible top and enclosure…the shop that did it is closed but I use King Marine in Ballard now….they do very good work. They will be able to match the material and build it the way you want it.
I have a 1998 233 with a 454. I am looking for a Captain’s Call exhaust system part number or another recommended system to install this spring. Any help would be appreciated.
Call Corsa Performance Exhaust they have an easy web site to manuever around and very helpful service techs. They walked me through identifying the part I needed for mine.
Good luck.
Hi I just registered to this exceptional place mycobalt.net . I want to ask for your opinion.
Can you tell me please do you make money with forex and if yes what forex dealer do you use?
Do you know of some reliable ones?
Thanks in advance for your answers.
P.S. Sorry if I have posted to wrong section this but as you can notice I am newbie here.
I am looking for a slightly used cobalt 262 trailer. Any one?
I am looking for a 22′ -24′ Cobalt for about $15,000 to $30,000. I prefer engine to be at least 70% of max rating and SS dual props. I would also prefer walk-thru transom, bimini top and extended swim deck. Anyone know someone looking to sell such a boat?
I have a 23′ cobalt with top option 502 Mag listed for sale on this site. Please check my listing and let me know if you are interested.
http://mycobalt.net/2009/11/05/1997-cobalt-23ls-for-sale/#comment-3232
The only option it does not have that you are looking for is the extended swim platform which is easy to put on.
I have 2005 model 226 that I would consider selling. It has every feature yuo mentioned except an extended swim platform. E-mail me if you want to discuss.
Need help in deciding which of the smaller Cobalts would be best suited for ski/wakeboarding and just zipping around the lake.
Also what was the last year the 190 was built?
Is there a particular engine/boat combo to stay away from from?
I’m actively looking for a clean 18/20 foot Cobalt.
Wally from Winnipeg.
I am looking to replace my moring cover for my 1997 cobalt 220 BR
Where is the best place to get one with side ties?
Thanks
Hi, I have a 2002 262 bow rider 496 with a radar arch. I’m looking for all the hardware and canvas for the arch bimini. Previous owner removed and through away! (I know), also trying to find the cushion to fill in the bow area. Boat has black strips and black canvas. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Dealer says its obsolete and no longer available. Thanks again. Al
Hi, I am in Mexico Cancun, and recently I bought a Cobalt 272 1994, with engine 454 originally – serial 4100144472 and a transmission Volvo Penta, which was broken and I changed for Bravo 3 with propella pitch 22.
Problem: AT Top Speed and with the trim light up the boat made 5200 RPM / 40 MPH , with pitch 22, I need to buy new propellers, But I am not sure to go to 26 or 28, I like 28, but I fried when the boat is with more of 6 passengers and strong sea, the boat can loose force and spend a lot of gasoline, in theory double propellers understand that represent each pitch 300 RPM, If I go to 28 I would leave at 4300 rpm, the original engine is 330 HP, and specifies that its RPM maximum would 4400 RPM, which seems perfect, But some friends said 26 is Better, I do not want to be out of the RPM Range , and lost Top speed. Here is very difficult to test with 26 or 28 propellers, the dealers do not have. I have to buy the correct pitch, please help me to make the correct choice.
Regards
Erick
I am restoring a 1978 Condesa. Looking for the hinge/bracket for the back slide out-fold down seat. Even a picture with some measurements would help. I have 1 bracket out of 4. I can fabricate if necessary. Have a machine shop but want to be as close to original as possible. Also looking for coil line/ tape switch for cabin hatch. Please get back with me with any information. Thank you!
Jay,
I posted your question on another forum, specifically to an owner of a ’88 Condesa. He is going to take some pics of the of the hinge setup on the seat fold down. He is not sure what you mean by ‘coil line/ tape switch for cabin hatch’. If you could clarify then hopefully he can help with that too.
James
Thanks James, I spoke with the Cobalt factory in Kansas and was told I can operate the hatch without the Coil-Wire switch (which is at the front edge of the cabin hatch that acts as a extra safety to insure it shuts off when it touches it) but if I can find one, I want to install it. I will buy you a beer if your friend is able to help. Oh, you’ll have to come to NW Arkansas though!
I am still wanting pictures, diagrams, or drawings of the motor cover folding seat hinges/ arms for my 1978 Condesa. I have some pieces 1.e. base swing arms and stainless steel seat bracket but have no idea of how it all goes together to allow the proper folding operation. Please help!
I am redoing a Cobalt 360. Previous owner did not take care of this boat. Needs new engine compartment blower duct, if anyone out there has the same boat and can snap some pictures of how I am to route these ducts I would greatly appreciate it. My email is emaounis@gmail.com. Thanks so much. Evan
Are you still looking for the Pictures? I have one and can snap them for you, I have a 2004.
Pete
Hey Pete, You can get me pics of the engine compartment seat that is on the sliding base and folds flat for my 79 Cobalt Condesa? My seat base has the Stainless steel bracket and 2- (roughly 12″) arms on both sides. My problem is I only have 1 of the “L” Brackets that mount on the bottom and the back cushions. The Leather is faded with the outline of these but not sure how the swing arms connect. I have fabricate the exact angles but wanna verify they are all mirror images of the other.
Hello:
I have been searching to no avail for a LOCKING GAS CAP that will fit my 1999 Cobalt 206. Does anyone know where I might find this? Even my Cobalt dealer has been unable to help. Thanks!
Anyone know where I can get replacement wood trim for the dash on my ’96 253? Thanks
I just bought a 2009 262 and am thinking about purchasing a GPS for the boat. I was told by the dealer that they sell a GPS that fits perfectly in the pocket to the right of the steering wheel. Does anyone have pictures of what the installed GPS looks like? I am also looking for any advise on which GPS I should purchase for the boat. Thanks.
Hi Tyler,
The GPS that fits that boat is a Garmin 376C. In order for it to fit you will need your dealership to install the optional faceplate…it replaces the one that is installed now. Otherwise you can just mount it to the winshield upright with a clamp style mount.
The factory suggested in-dash mounting is behind the steering wheel and obscures the view of the GPS on our 2008 202.
I mounted a Garmin 378 on to top of the dash between the instrument cluster and the windshield support with the included dash mount. I did cringe about drilling holes for screws in the top of the dash, but it looks nice, and is highly visible by operator and passengers.
Note, the 378 model has lake maps and highway maps built in, with options for XM Radio/weather/etc. Purchased new online for about $600. We trailer our cobalt 202 and the GPS has been great for driving to unfamiliar launch ramps, and we can safely take slow evening cruses on the water – navigating in the dark is a snap.
What did you end up doing with your GPS? Do you have pictures?
Interested in buying a 1997 Cobalt 190 and dealer is asking $11,900. My question is, I looked at NADA and that is showing up around 8k. How do I know what the right price to pay for the Cobalt?
This has been discussed at some length on other forums over the last year or so. The markets for cars, boats, houses in the US are pretty flat. What this means is that despite what NADA, BUC or any other lists might say, the only right price is the one that the buyer and seller agree upon. If you are in a big hurry to buy and the seller is in no hurry to sell, the price goes up. Vise-versa and the price comes down.
Moral, go to the dealer, look as uninterested as you can, make an unenthusiastic low-ball offer as you can and see what happens. If he/she laughs, shrug your shoulders and walk, muttering as you go that you will be back in a month to make a lower offer. If you have a friend, have him/her go in and excitedly offer the same or less.
It’s a buyer’s market, but not all buyers know it. That’s what the dealers like.
James
My depth finder on my ’99 252 reads temp OK but not depth. I assume it is the sender. I heard these are Faria gauges? Can I replace the sender? Where is it?
I found that faria used airmar technology transducers. The “cup” that the transducer sits in sometimes leaks. refill with antifreeze. Here are the instructions: http://airmartechnology.com/uploads/installguide/17-217-01.pdf
Has anyone had problems yet with 10% ethanol gas sitting in their boat unused for many months?
Oh yeah! You need to keep stabilizer in the tank and keep it topped off if you are going to store it. If it goes bad you have to pump it out and clean the fuel delivery system.
I’m headed to my local hazardous waste collection center where (at no charge) they’ll pump the bad fuel out thru my disconnected fuel line & do who-knows-what with it, but at least it should mostly be gone & I can start over with some new fuel. I haven’t had any problems, but I don’t trust the gas that’s been sitting in there. Probably 15 gallons down the tube. Oh well, welcome once again to boat ownership. It’s not for the cheap, weak or faint-of-heart, I guess.
I just came across a very nice 1979 Cobalt 19′BR kept in a three car garage for its entire life. The condition is like it was used for half a season, since everything is original and in almost perfect condition. Yes, it has the optional canvas tops, the multipiece swim platform, the captain chairs, and stereo options. The hours show around 370 on the meter, which fits the looks. The engine and outdrive look exceptional, but little use can be almost as bad as too much use. My problem is he wants a lot, but we all know it’s a buyer’s market. Ideas, thoughts, and strategies are welcome… Thanks. Bill
How right you are. Seems a lot of sellers have not yet come to that realization and are still asking dollars appropriate to 3 years ago.
Your best bet is to offer rediculously low and see what happens. The final selling/purchase price will reflect directly the seller’s need to sell vs the buyer’s desire to buy.
James
Bill,
A few weeks have gone by but if you are still considering this boat purchase it will be essential that you have a qualified mechanic look at the engine oil quality (Maybe even send a sample to a lab) to check for acid.
Next, get a compression check on all the cylinders.
I bought a 1982 19 foot with a Mercury 260 last winter. It runs fine but I’m glad I checked these items before buying.
Paul
I just bought a 1976 18′ Bowrider, my first boat. I have a couple of questions:
1. You can tell that someone used to take very good care of this boat, but not for awhile now. The teak wood has not been oiled for over 10 years and left outside for part of that time. It has turned grey and the grain is starting to separate. Is there anything out there that can bring this back to life? Also one piece is missing. Is there a place you can buy replacement teak wood?
2. I’d really like to get a new canvas top with the camper top addition on the back. Any ideas of where I can get one?
Thanks,
Justin
Hi everyone — Wondering if anyone knows anything about a problem we’re having with our Cobalt 190 —
The high-pitched sound that normally comes when you put the key in the ignition won’t go away after the engine’s started — We’ve got plenty of oil, so that’s not the problem — We replaced the starter, so that’s not the problem either……
Our mechanic will be free later in the week — but the weather’s gorgeous, so we’d love to take the boat out today….
any ideas??
we have a 2005 220 volvo 5.o gxi. we get 2 different sounds. there is a long beep when you put the key in the ignition followed by 2 shorter beeps when you turn the key, which we believe has to do with the fuel injector (these sound the same). the oil and temperature warning alarms are a totally different sound from the beeps heard when you put the key in the ignition; these are MUCH louder and go on for longer intervals.
maybe there is a short in the ignition switch or a problem with the fuel injector?
hope this helps
I had that problem once and it turned out to be the level of out drive lube in the reservoir was a little low. Just top it off and problem was resolved. Good luck.
Thanks for the quick replies! We’ll check it out — we replaced the ignition switch, but we’ll check out the level of out drive lube…. and if that doesn’t work, then the fuel injector….. or any other ideas….. so appreciated!!
Quick follow up question…
there is a small button just below our cobalt 190 ignition switch that we think might be tied to our problem –
Does anyone know what this is and whether it could be connected to the high-pitched sound? It looks like a reset button????
Looking for a used 20′ to 22′ Cobalt open bow. I’m located in California, but for the right deal I’ll go pretty much anywhere. I’ve been looking at boats for the past year, Cobalts are definitely my preferred choice, but on a teachers salary there’s no way I can afford a new one.. Thanks in advance for any help in locating one..
On 1991 222 cobalt the alarm is sounding, why, it is not overheating?
my experience was low lower unit lube. check the reservoir.
I’m not familiar with older engines but I was experiencing a similar problem on my boat. I have 2010 242 with a Merc 496 MAG. The temp gauge was reading 175F, but the audible alarm was sounding due to the Engine Guardian System. It turned out there were weeds trapped in the heat exchanging cause the Exhaust Manifold Temperature to be to high. It was only 25% blocked so it would operate normally for a while, but eventually overheat.
I just purchased a 2004 Cobalt 250 yesterday with 100 hours! I’m extremely excited about getting it out on the water ASAP! This is my first boat purchase and I wanted to buy the best so I went with Cobalt. Any suggestions, comments on making my Cobalt experience outstanding would greatly be appreciated. I’m looking forward to a lot of fun in the sun this summer, thanks!
First, pack a toolkit. The first day we had out new boat out a cooling hose clamp came loose and the engine overheated. Second get a map of the lake and pay attention to the shallow areas. The water’s not always a deep as it looks and shallow bottoms bend props (two on a Bravo III)!
Third, have fun. Play with the trim (and trim tabs) and see have they affect the boat. It can make a huge difference.
Finally don’t let the other boaters get too jealous.
Has anyone installed a GPS on the dash of their 262? If so where did you place it and what type or model did you use?
Evening,
I am looking for a boat shop here in Eastern, NC ( we are close to Raleigh,NC) that can assist with getting our boat back together. A few years ago we removed the two long side panels in the main part of the boat as well as pulled up the carpeting. Our intent was to the buy the materials and redo it ourselves.
Well, all good intentions, but due to health, economy and other obligations, it just never happened.
Now, we are at the point where we want to get her up and going again, however I cannot physically do it.
I do not anticipate any major issues, but I am not a certified boat guy.
I am looking for a reputable company to:
Replace and re-upholster the two long side panels
Replace the carpet
Re-assemble and adjust the control levers
Do what ever other repairs necessary on the engine and associated parts to make it right
Give her a general once over to make sure she is good to go…
Body wise she is in great shape, just in need of some really good cleaning….
I would greatly appreciate your recommendations….
Boat is a” 1985 Cobalt Condesa, 23′
260hp Mercruiser 5.7ltr, carburated.
Regards,
Tony …
I recently purchased a 2000 Cobalt 206. The depth finder works for 5 to 30 seconds before dropping back down to 1 foot until I reset it…any thoughts on how to fix this?
Hi John, If you have the Airmar Technology transducer that screws into a “cup” in the bilge under the engine, check that the “cup” has a few ounces of antifreeze in it. Turn the transducer counter clockwise half a turn; it will slip out. It worked on my 02 262. Good luck.
http://1960-boat-for-sale.blogspot.com
“14 foot Glasspar along great running twin Sea King 35 horse power long shaft electric start motors. Wouldn’t take much to make it look new again
One old sweet complete classic. $1,960 obo.
I have a 2000 Model 206. My radio quit working.
I looked behind the dash and see an unattached wire but can’t see where it might plug into (it has two wires converging into one female connector). Does anyone know where this goes or is a wiring diagram available anywhere ?
Jim, I have the exact same boat, year and model. I too have the wire you describe. My radio works fine and I think you should look elsewhere for the solution. Good luck.
Its probably a power antenna wire that is not used.
Hi, I am new to the cobalt boats. I purchased a 1988 23′ condessa last year….Has 202 hours on it. I am looking forward to putting it in the water. But……. I have also had the urge to sell it. Im confused. I have motorcycles, atv’s……etc. Too many toys to make it simple. Anyone interested in this condessa shoot me an offer. It is clean. Runs out good out of water. Not sure about in the water…Havent had that pleasure yet. I am in Kentucky. Anyone that can give me a fair market value of this boat I would appreciate also. If I don’t sell it I would really enjoy talking to someone that knows more than I do about it…….(Do’s and dont’s) . Shoot me a message at trucker41957@windstream.net with interest or help……..Oh yeah….It doesn’t have the camper top….Anyone know where I could find this plese email me. I ran across this site by accident. It looks very helpful…..Thx for any replies…or none at all is cool also…..Have fun guys…summer is here.
Hi..Hope this comment is in the right forum. I’m looking for all the hardware for the bimini on my 2002 262, it came with the fiberglass arch and the sliding bimini. I was able to get the three bows from Cobalt but they came with no ends or anything to attach them to the slide rails. Dealer says they are obsolete. Previous owner through the complete bimini away. Any help would be great. Thanks Al
Hello,
Just purchased a 1982 19 foot model FGE. Can anyone suggest where I can buy a new dash clock and a new tilt angle indicator ???
Any other special considerations for this model ??
Paul in Colorado
Hello there,
Have a newly purchased 1982, 19 foot Model FGE.
With all the dash switches in the OFF position and the ignition key in the OFF position there is still a spark showing when I connect the ground wire to the battery and the battery goes low after 2 days.
Any thoughts ????
Paul in Colorado
Run a voltage meter from the ground terminal to the disconnected ground wire. It should be about a maximum of 2 volts with the key off. If not, disconnect one circuit at a time until you see the drop in voltage. This circuit will then be the one you must focus the repair on. Bill
A mechanic snapped off the stud on the starter of my ’99 252 with a 454DP. He says you have to pull the engine to replace the starter. Anybody out there had their starter replaced? Is he right?
There is a post dated July 23, 2009 on this site listing a 2000 Cobalt 223 for sale. The same boat is also listed for sale on EBay and it shows up for sale on other sites as well. I am interested in the boat, but the model year for that particular boat is confusing me. I am familiar with a Cobalt 223 model sold in the 1990′s, but not a model year 2000 Cobalt 223. There is not a reference to a Cobalt 223 in either the Cobalt 2000 owners manual or the Cobalt 2000 sales brochure. Does anyone have any information whether the Cobalt 223 was made in model year 2000?
Tom … Might be the same situation as mine: I bought one of the last 226′s, & an exec at Cobalt told me their bean counters dictated that it had to be titled as an ’07 since its hull was cast after a certain date (end of their fiscal year, I assume) … yet the 226 is not in the 2007 brochure Cobalt mailed me.
I emailed the seller about the discrepancy and he replied that the boat model was a 2000 Cobalt 226 and not a 2000 Cobalt 223. No explanation why the error. I doubt it was a typo because the boat was described as a 2000 Cobalt 223 in several ads placed at different times, including a year apart. Strange that a Cobalt owner would not know his model type. Sorta like forgetting your wife’s name or the Toyota car model you own. Maybe he will see this comment and explain what happened.
FOR SALE: 2002 COBALT 206 (21’) in White with Classic Navy Blue Stripe. Absolutely beautiful boat…both inside and out. Excellent condition and extremely well maintained. Always stored indoors…both summer (dry rack) and winter. Only 240 hours with oil/gear lube changed and DCM serviced at least 1-2 times every season. Includes Load Rite Galvanized Trailer, NEW stainless steel prop, full snap-in Cobalt carpeting, navy blue mooring cover, navy tonneau cover, navy canopy top, navy bimini top, digital stereo with driver remote control and numerous other accessories. Just Dealer Certified Mechanic water tested/DCM inspected and ready for summer fun. Please call Rob at 412-780-5989 or email (rworsena@zoominternet.net) in Wexford, PA area. $19,950. NO DEALERS PLEASE.
Looking for middle hinged piece of teak swim platform for 88 17br. This is all I need to have the boat back to original condition.
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Please, no more abuse !!!!!!
Paul
I have a 1985 Bowrider in Tampa Bay, Florida. I need engine repair. Can anyone suggest a good Cobalt mechanic in the Tampa Bay area? I have fairly extensive repair needs so I need someone well qualified and reasonably priced (if such a thing exists).
Hi Everyone, I’m looking for a bow cushion for a 2002 262. My buddy has one in his boat and my wife has to have one. Apparently no longer available from Cobalt, some 7 year thing. If you don’t want yours Email Me. Thanks Al
I have a 97′ cobalt 220. The motor will not turn over. I was told it was the starter, so I replaced yet it is still not making a sound. If anyone has any ideas that may help me I would love to hear from you. thanks.
Jonathan
Jonathan,
Engines overall are pretty simple. Is your’s fuel injected or carb? If it is carb, check that you are 1: getting fuel, 2: getting spark. I’ll ask the obvious. Did you turn on the battery switch? Does the engine turn over? Do you have the boat in neutral when you are trying to start it? Is the shifter/cable working? Do you have the kill safety lanyard switch set correctly/is it working? Do you hear anything at all like clicks from the starter solenoid? Does the engine have oil in it and did you ever run it dry? If it is fuel injected, can you hook up an ODB reader to the computer and see any error codes?
That should hopefully get you started down the right path.
Regards,
Todd
Hi Everybody,
I’m in the market for a family boat – something in the 25′-28′ range – and just discovered Cobalt. I have to say that I’m impressed with everything I’ve read. One thing I’m curious about is whether the boats are suitable for offshore use, or are they really lake boats. I’m not talking 200 miles out (near coastal?) but I’m in the Northeast and it’s nice to head out into the Atlantic for a few miles. Also, our bays can become quite choppy.
The deadrise for the 263 model is listed as 22 degrees which is at least a semi-vee. That along with the dry weight makes the boat comparable to other boats I’m looking at (Chris-Craft) which are considered suitable for offshore use. What do you think? Thank you in advance.
Hello guys,
My name is William and I am from Stirling in the UK. I have the other day discovered this forum and I like it very much.
I am a bit shy so I will not write much about myself but maybe when I will get confortable, you guys will get to know me better!
My main hobbies are cooking and watching movies. I also love outdoor activites but the temperature has been horrible for the last weeks or so here in Stirling.
I was wondering if anyone else here is from the united Kingdom too?
I am happy to have joined this forum!
Cheers!
William
PS: Sorry if this was posted in the wrong section. I could not find the right one!
I have a 2003 Cobalt 240 . I need to buy a trailer for it any Ideas ?
I have a 2006 Navy Cobalt 240 trailer made by Dorsey available.
I am in Seattle Washington.
Buy one! I have a Heritage holding my 226. It is awesome. heritagetrailers.com
I’m looking for the factory snap on boat cover and frame which would have come as standard to the 1982 thru 1985 Cobalt CS7. I haven’t seen any used Cobalt part sites on the internet. Anyone with answers would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill
Hi, does anyone have experience with repairing bimini top mounts that are attached to windshield frame on older Cobalts? I have one on the port side, closest to the bow, that has pulled the forward screw out due to the mechanical advantage generated by having the top up and folded while driving the boat. I have been told to look in to nutcerts. Anyhow, any help would be appreciated if you have experienced a similar issue and have successfully fixed it. My boat is 1999 233.
Regards,
Todd
I have a 2006 220 and have read the owners manual but cannot find any information on the meaning of the various beeps I hear while starting or running the boat. I am having trouble starting the boat. When I am cranking the engine, I hear a single beep. The engine is cranking strong but it is not firing. It is fuel injected. I cannot smell gas so am assuming that fuel is not getting to the engine. Any ideas or any idea where I can find the meaning of the various beeps?
Thanks
we have a 2005 220 with a volvo 5.o gxi. when the key is put into the ignition there is a long beep, which indicates that the boat has been turned on. this is followed by 2 shorter beeps when you turn the key, which we believe has to do with the fuel injector (these sound the same). along with these 2 shorter beeps, you should be able to hear the fuel injector opening up at the same time.
unfortunately, at times we have also heard the oil and temperature warning alarms, but these sound totally different from the beeps heard when you put the key in the ignition; these are MUCH louder and go on for longer intervals.
hope this helps
Hi,
I just purchased a 1988 Cobalt Condurre 21′ Bowrider. Does anyone know the model number on this boat? I don’t see it listed in the index on this site. I am looking for a dry weight on this boat. I need to buy a boat lift and not sure what one I need.
Chris,
3200 lbs as per, http://cobaltboats.com/art/brochures/Cobalt_1988.pdf
James
Thanks James. I looked around the web-site and did not find that. Do you know if the owners manual is also out there somewhere?
Thanks
Chris
Chris,
Yup, same site, http://cobaltboats.com/art/manuals/1988_owner_manual.pdf
James
Hey, We purchased our 2006 220 new from a dealer in Seattle in June 2007. At the end of last season we noticed the drive oil resevior was very low so we replenished it. When we brought the boat in for winterization at the dealer we asked for them to look into it. As it turned out there was a crack in the housing of the drive shaft ( uncertain of correct terminology). The dealer said they would contact Colbalt and Volvo ( engine maker) and see if would be covered under warrantee. Turns out that Colbalt is blaming Volvo and Volvo says claim is outside warantee. The repair is estimated to be 7000.00. The dealer says the best they can do is give us the consumer complaint contact information. They mentioned that there have been other claims made with the same issue with very little success. Does anyone have a similar situation and any successs with anyone backing theri product. Our boat has been used for 3 seasons and has less than 100 hours on it. This problem was the reason we bought a Colbalt and not a Bayliner.
Cheers,
Anthony
Anthony,
Sounds like you need a new lower unit for your outdrive. You can find them rebuilt for less than what the dealer is telling you if you shop around. Find the outdrive part number on the serial number sticker on your engine block and look around. I’d think swapping a new one on would run you only a few hundred by any decent boat mechanic if you can find one reasonably priced somewhere. I’m not sure if you can have something like that welded or not, but it might be worth looking in to. It would probably take having the thing completely disassembled first, fixed and then put back together, which is not a small job so finding a replacement might be a better option. Of the people I have seen selling a rebuilt drive they will want your broken one as a core to help offset the price of a rebuilt unit. I’m not sure what type of warranty you will get on one of those rebuilt units but if you can buy an extended warranty on it, it might be worth it. Drives and props on these things are definitely expensive.
Good luck working it out!
Todd
Hey everyone.. I am looking to get my first boat and really don’t know too much about boats, so I was hoping you guys could help me out here. I found a red 1991 Cobalt 206 Bowrider with approximately 800 hrs on it, but the engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago and has only 30-40 hrs on it. I think the guy said he hooked it up and tested the compression? and it was at 155. The exterior of the boat is in good shape with a few minor scuffs here and there. Otherwise the gel coat is real shiny and the boat looks good. The interior is finished in the original cream leather which is in great shape considering the age of the boat. Floor is solid as well. It also has a nice infinity sound system with the sub mounted behind a glass enclosure. The guy is asking 8,500 for it. What are some other questions I should ask (or issues I should be aware of) before pulling the trigger on this boat? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks,
Jeff
Oh yeah.. I forgot to mention that the engine is a Volvo Penta 5.7.
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff,
I’d have a good mechanic check it out, preferably not the guy who rebuilt the engine. Check all the fluid levels and make sure that they look clear, not cloudy. I’m not sure if that year boat has wood stringers and transom but I’d really go over the inside of the boat to make sure you aren’t potentially in for any expensive repairs. Look for signs of water infiltration and rot. See if he has any maintenance records for it. Look on Boat Trader and NADA to see how the price compares to comparable boats. Does the boat have any options on it that might help its value? Stuff like freshwater shower, stainless steel prop, duoprop outdrive, docking lights, trim tabs, thru-hull exhaust, etc… Arrange for a sea trial if you are serious about buying the boat and consider hiring a boat surveyor if you are concerned at all about what you are buying. You can find certified boat surveyors in most areas. Do all the options work? Is he throwing in any equipment like lines, fenders, life jackets, safety gear, anchor? You can expect to spend another 1000 on outfitting your boat with all the stuff it might need to be sea worthy if nothing comes with the boat. Figure another 1000 for doing all the general maintenance items that might need to be done like oil change, spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor, belts, outdrive service & lube, gimbal bearing, bellows, a good detail job, cleaning supplies & equipment, trailer service. Call your insurance agent and make sure you can get insurance. Decide where you are going to keep it. Around where I live marina fees run ~$1500 for a boat that size for the season with valet service (May to November) and another $500 for inside winter storage.
When you put it all together, your $8500 boat will probably run you ~$750 / month if you are a frequent user of it.
Boat Budget per Month:
Payment $125 to $165
Insurance $30.00
Storage $210.00
Maintenance $100.00
Gasoline $200.00
Equipment $25.00
Miscellaneous $25.00
Total $715 to $755
From my own experience if you budget less you will be short at some point down the road when the unexpected comes along.
Good luck with the decision!
Regards,
Todd
I have a 1981 18 foot Cobalt in excellent condition. Comes with a Rolco 19′ tqandem axle trailer. Does anyone know what it is worth?
Jessie,
Yes, I think I can help. My good friend in Kansas City bought his 1982 COBALT, 18 foot, model FGE, Mercury 260 in 2005 for $5000. He patched 2 places in the upholstery and he removed, cleaned & oiled every piece of teak wood.
This past winter I bought the same year, same model Cobalt at $3000 on E-bay. Mine also needs Teak clean/oil but the seller had spent $1200 for a full replacement of all interior cushions and upholstery. I will send you photos if you send your E-mail to me.
Russell’s did not come with a trailer. Mine has a 1994 Calkins double axle trailer.
Feel free to call (970) 237-2002. I live 60 miles north of Denver.
Paul jentlman7@yahoo.com
Afternoon,
I am looking for pics of a 1987 Cobalt Condesa 23, specifically the interior upholstery (sides, flooring, seats) and inside cabin. I am in the process of restoring the interior and I would like to be able to get it back to as close to that great factory look as possible.
Any assistance, pointers, is greatly appreciated.
Tony …
Hello,
If you still need pictures, I have plenty. We did alot of work to our Condesa. Just send me you’r e-mail and I can give you pictures of almost any part in that boat.
Has anyone had experience with wiring on a 1977 Cobalt? My starter won’t stop turning over…I’ve replaced the starter, the celanoid, and checked the wiring. My manual doesn’t explain the wiring from the ignition switch to the motor…it shows wiring, but the colors don’t match up!
I have a 2002 262 and I’m looking for a radar arch with bimini. Can anyone help?
David
Did you ever find one? I would like the same for my 02 262.
I have a 2002 Colbalt 226 w/5.7 Volvo Penta. Boat starts up fine, and will run great! The only problem I’m having is after I run the boat and lets say I pull over and shut the boat down when I go to take off I’m usually in a no wake zone the boat will start to bog down and I cannot accelerate. I have to shut the boat off wait about 5 minutes then start it and it runs fine! Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Ken,
Nice boat (I have the same one!).
I would look at the potential for vapor-lock in the fuel line. Next time you are idling out, try opening the engine compartment to allow it to stay cooler, if this works and you can see it, you might want to install some insulation on the fuel supply line.
Also, be sure you are running your blower when idling aong, not only is this a safe practice, but it will also help to keep the engine compartment cooler.
Good luck,
I am looking for a rear view mirror for our 22′ cobalt. Something that clips on the windshield frame would be ideal (is removable). Can you help?
Also, looking for a cleaning method for the white upholstery.
Thx,
Patti
Patti,
Rear view mirrors can be found easily from companies like Overtons.
http://search.overtons.com/?D=rear%20view%20mirror&Nty=1&N=0&Dk=0&Ntt=rear%20view%20mirror
Cleaning instructions for your upholstery can be found in your owner’s manual. One of the best things that I have found to get them really clean is to use a soft / medium brush and SoftScrub w/Bleach. You will want to be extra careful with any carpeting or cloth to not get SoftScrub w/Bleach on them or you will risk damaging them, but it does an awesome job on the seats and is recommended in the owner’s manual for my 233. Keep it off your fiberglass too since it is abrasive and will dull it up if you are not careful. When you are done, make sure you rinse it very well and clean out any seams with a tootbrush and a lot of water to get the SoftScrub out of them. Wipe them completely dry and let set in the sun for a couple hours then wipe down with a good vinyl protector like Meguiar’s Vinyl Cleaner / Protector or similar product. I hear 3M has a really good vinyl protector cleaner product too.
Then for every day cleanups use something like Fantastik Oxy or similar and follow up with Meguiar’s again.
My wife did not think the seats were dirty until I showed her the SoftScrub trick and then it was night and day the difference.
Hope that helps you out!
-Todd
Yes! That really does help! I would have thought soft scrub too harsh so I am pleased to hear it will be okay followed with a good vinyl protector.
I found a mirror through Bart’s on line.
Thanks for replying. I appreciate it!
-Patti
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anyone know where to get an owners manual that is more indepth than the ones on line. I am having a problem with my depth finder. Was told to fill with mineral oil and found that I have water rushing in from below..When I took cover off to refill. I obviously have a breach below the resovior..looking form beneath the boat I cant tell anything as it is open to the inside for a ways.
Rick, I’m having issues with my 02 262 depth guage as well. The “cup” that the transducer sits in, should be filled with antifreeze according to airmar technology’s instructions. My “cup” was dry, must have leaked out. Here’s the link: http://airmartechnology.com/uploads/installguide/17-217-01.pdf
I’m going to try it on mine.
Rick, I just added antifreeze to my transducer “cap” or holder. My depth guage is working perfectly now. Good luck with yours.
Hopefully, this is not a stupid question. I just bought a 2003 Cobalt 226. Went to put gas in it and realized there is supposed to be a special key to open the gas cap which the seller did not tell me or provide. Is this a standard thing? is there a universal type key that can be used/bought elsewhere? Thanks in advance!
You’ve probably figured it out by now … If not, it’s a common 2-pronged key that most boat places carry. My 226 came with 1 or 2 of them, & just to be safe I picked another for about 1 or 2 bucks.
Thanks! Yes, you are correct. I figured it out and found one. It would have been nice if the seller would have just given me his key. To make it worse, he has blown me off and wont respond. I didnt realize I need one until we were headed to the lake and couldnt put gas in the tank. Kinda ruined the day as we went on goose chase looking for one. Thanks for your reply!
Annoying beeping
I have a sporadic beeping, but am having problems identifying the cause. I have a 2004 246 with mercruiser 350 engine. Starting last weekend, the beeping started. The beeping is loud, and various in its length (15 seconds to 1 min 30 seconds) of time. At first, it sounded like the problem was the depth guage, however, i can not toggle thru the settings and it shut off. I have since rechecked all my depth guage settings, and dont think that is the problem. The beeping always stops, usually after running the boat in gear for a bit and getting up to cruising speed. How can i tell what beeps are depth warnings vs other engine warning levels? What fluid levels or other events would cause a beeping warning to sound? Especially so inconsistantly. Some times it beeps, sometimes it does not. The beeping (when it happens) sounds after starting the engine, never in mid cruising (the only time it did beep not on a engine start, was once when i put the into reverse when getting to park it) The problem is being able to describe the problem and predict what is causing the beeping. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I would first check oil level. I believe that the engine has a low level warning.
Next, try to notice if the oil pressure guage looks normal during the times when the beeping is occurring. typically when you are at idle you will have a lower oil pressure than when cruising. Also, if you were to drop the boat into reverse, you would lower the RPM’s/oil pressure.
o.k. took the boat out last weekend after having the spark plugs changed as well as the fuel filter. The boat runs great except when we stop and shut down for awhile! Then the boat sputters and will not start. After sitting dead in the water for 1 hour, I unplugged the high output fuel pump and the boat fired right up and we were able to get the boat out of the water. Has anyone ever experienced this we have a 2002 Cobalt 226 w/5.7 Volvo Penta!
I have a 1996 232. This weekend after doing some tubing the engine died suddenly. There was a smell of burning wires, then in a few moments I was able to restart the motor, however whenever I would hit the trim switch it would the motor would die again. Any sugguestions?
Sounds like a short being created by a melted wire somewhere. I’d look near anything that gets particularly hot, like around your exhaust manifold on the side where the trim pot is. On my 233 that is on port side.
Regards,
Todd
Hi – I was wondering if anyone has had any dealings with Cobalt and the warranty Repair process. I am in the process of buying a 360. During the survey we identified pretty significant moisture content throughout the foredeck and what appears to be some significant delamination. The boat is still under warranty. Anyone heard,seen, experienced this with Cobalt? Anyone know how good their warranties are? Feedback would be appreciated.
I will give that a shot. Makes more sense for it to be back there then up around the shifter lever or under the dash where I have been looking. I definately think I should be seeing some melted wires somewhere. There should be a “smoking gun” so to speak! Thanks for the suggestion.
Does anyone know where the seacock is to allow you to pump out the toilet in a 2001 262? This is a built-in toilet. I’ve looked everywhere…
Thanks,
JW
Jerry, My understanding is that you put the pump hose on the silver capped clean out labled “waste”. Mine (02 262) is located up next to the nav lights. Yours is probably there or near there. It looks just like your gas cap, but its labled “waste”. Had a friend fill her holding take with gas. Not fun.
Sorry Jerry, reading your comment closer: These boats don’t have seacocks for the toilets. They’ve eliminated possibility of dumping into lake. Not sure how to clean out, I’ve never used mine.
Does anyone know how to stop the squeak of a dry engine belt? The Volvo 5.0 Gxi on our 2005 220 runs great except for this annoying sound. Any tips?
Thanks
Greg,
I am not sure when you last had your belt replaced but it sounds to me like it is probably time. A new belt should not sqeal like you describe if properly installed and set to the correct tension. If you have recently replaced your belt and it still does this then it may be the belt tensioner that needs replaced or adjusted. I would suggest you stay away from products that promise to make this go away. Belt dressing will just make your pully sticky. You might check to see if there is anything on your pullies that would make the belt slip.
Regards,
Todd
I have a 2000 Cobalt 253. Late last year, the Sony radio/cd player died on me and I removed the old one so that I could put a new unit in. I didn’t get around to installing the new one until now, and I can’t remember how the radio antenna was hooked up. Is it a standard car antenna plug in type, or is it in the wiring somewhere. For the life of me, I can’t find an antenna wire anywhere. Any help in telling me what type of antenna these boats have and where it comes from would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for the help.
The Cobalt web site puts the 210 and 230 models in a category called “10 Series” and all other models (222, 232, 242, etc.) in a category called “Bowriders”. All of the models look like bowriders to me and the Cobalt web site has no other explanation for the distinction. Does anyone know what Cobalt means by saying one model is a 10 Series and another model is a Bowrider?
TIA
Can anyone tell me where I can purchase a battery trickler and what brand might be recommended? I have a 2003 22.6′ Cobalt.
Thanks in advance!
May be a dumb question but can you add the stainless steel arch in the field? My boat (252) does not have one and I have arch envy!
I am looking to buy a full set of clear vinly foul-weather enclosures that zip on to the travelling bimini on a 2001 206 BR. Any suggestions?
please pass that info to me. i would like to have the same.
Jerry,
RE: Arch Envy
The real cure for arch envy is to look closely at photos of high quality boats from 1955 to 1985 BEFORE these silly arches and speaker supports and wake board racks came along to spoil the attractive profile of boats.
Hey, if God meant for a boat to have an arch he would have made it into a MsDonalds franchise.
Paul ( and you can send me 10% of the money you will now save by NOT buying an arch)
My 91 252 cobalt has gotten stuck in gear. I was pulling into my stall on my dock and had to turn the key off. I am now trying to get the panel off below the throttle. I’m not having much luck, I don’t want to force it . Anyone ever have this problem? thx in advance Bill
I had the same problem. My was caused by quickly shifting from Forward to Reverse. It was stuck in Reverse on the open water! From what I could determine the issues was in the transmission. With a little bit of force _while the engine was running_ I was able to shift it out of Reverse. Before taking the cover of the shifter off, disconnect the shifter from the engine and see if you’re able to adjust the position of the shifter.
I have a 1983 21ft bow rider. I had the upholstery done and they must have removed some bracket that that braced the bow. Now when when the boat bounces the whole bow (seats and dash) bounce up and down. Does anyone know where or what this bracket that would brace the bow would have been. The upholstery shop was very unhelpfull and it is no good going back to try and remedy the situation with them.
Anyone got any feedback on replacement Bimini covers? I have a 99 Cobalt 252 with the “old” style bimini that clips to the head rail of the winshield and want to buy a “freestanding” one that I can actually stand upright underneath. Thinking of going for the 8 foot length to cover the reat seats – anyone got any good recommendations for suppliers??
Thanks
Tim
Not sure where you’re located, but I’m replacing the bimini cover on my new 2010 222 with a wake board tower that includes a bimini top, so the Navy top and hardware I have is available for purchase.
I just ordered an 8′ bimini from GMI in Canada for my ’99 252. All stainless hardware with support poles for $600
Just got my 2010 Cobalt 222. I noticed the hour meter is built into the speedometer, but much to my surprise I discovered a button below the dash that changes that digital display into multiple other information. Some are obvious like oil pressure and temperature, even degrees of trim. But there are several others I don’t understand, like L 69 and a gas tank symbol or R 0 and a gas tank symbol.
None of this is in the manual, in fact the manual shows the hour meter as a stand-alone gauge, there is also nothing on the Cobalt web site. This is a really nice feature, anyone know where I can read more about it or what all the display modes indicate?
I just found the same thing today on my 2010 232 and have the same question. The fuel is the one I wanted to know more about.
Is anyone considering a change in prop on their Volvo Duo-Prop setup to a F6 from a F7? I have a F6 set that I would like to trade for a F7 if somebody is interested. I am in Cincinnati, Ohio.
Regards,
Todd
hello, i was wondering where i should hook up a tow rope for tubing on my 1987 19′ bow rider?
Thank you
My newly purchased 2010 Cobalt 232 WSS with Volvo 320 5.7 GXI had major engine problems after 19 hours and the engine needed to be replaced. Something about one of the pistons not getting any compression. They said it was a total fluke. How concerned should I be about this???
I am looking at purchasing a 343. However, I am not finding a lot of feed back on the likes and dislikes of this boat. And/or improvements Cobalt made on the latest year compared to the first year.
Also, I have noticed that the 343 seems to be less expensive than a 323 for the same year. I was trying to figure out the pros and cons.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck,
I would not be concerned about it as you said the dealer replaced the engine with a new engine. It’s not very offen that new engine has this kind of problems and after all it is a Volvo problem not a Cobalt problem. Sounds like you have a good dealer that you are working with.
Just wanted to drop in and say hello.
I have a 2005 Cobalt 250 with 375hp VP IO, dual-prop, less than 100 hours.
Our Cobalt is kept on a trailer and we primarily day trip the Delaware River from Bordentown, NJ to Philadelphia, stopping for lunch and games at Dave and Busters.
Great spots along the way to tube and/or ski.
We also travel the Hudson River, East River, etc. circling Manhattan (launch at Jersey City).
Since we spend so much time traveling at slower speeds with a loaded boat I’ve been looking into Bennett trim tabs. Has anyone else installed trim tabs on their 250?
Did it make a large enough difference in planing speed and handling to justify the $$$?
Also, I was wondering if this a job for a decent home mechanic or is this a dealer only installation? presumably one needs to drill either into or through the stern. Have any forum members done this job themselves? Pointers/tips and photos appreciated.
Brian
[IMG]http://imgur.com/lwOdb.jpg[/IMG]
I have a 1999 Cobalt 206. A new engine block was put into it a year ago after a faulty impeller caused the engine to overheat and need to be replaced. Since then it keeps stalling when coming into docks or putting it into forward or reverse at slow speeds. Not every time but enough where it is a safety hazard. It revs and kind of “jumps” forward or revs on reverse depending on gear and then just dies. Again, not every time.
My Cobalt mechanic has tried to fix this many times to no avail. First the idling was adjusted several times. Second, the steering cables were replaced. It continued and left me stranded on the lake after I hung out for a while in a cove and I had to get towed. Then when the dealership came to pick it up it started up and they were able to drive it to the trailer. Back to the shop again. On this trip the fuel injectors have been replaced. Same issue remains. The dealership will be back Tuesday. I can’t possibly express how over all this I am as it has all been going on a year this month. Does anyone have any suggestions about what I should do next? PLEASE HELP!
Kendall, don’t laugh when I tell u this . I had a similar problem. Did some of the things u did to no avail. Just try this , there is a product called Seafoam, u put it in ur gas tank cost about $8 to 10 bucks. My boat wud just stop running high speed low speed , Idle. One diff my boat wud start up again. I put three cans of Seafoam in it and it has never done it again. At this point what do u have to lose? Good luck, hope this works for u. Bill
I have a 1998 20 foot Cobalt with Volvo Penta 5.0 volvo penta outdrive with 110 hours. Have used it twice since annual service. Foot locked up last weekend mechanic says it needs a new foot at 8K. It stays in an enclosed shop with no prior leaks on floor? We have put about 5 hours since service. How could it loose all the lube?
who knows where to get full specification online for a 2005 cobalt 200?
Just found the site, great information. I just purchased my first boat, a 1989 210 BR, love it. Have two questions: First, while underway (moving) the engine won’t stay trimmed. I’ll set it and then it will slowly start to lower. I constantly have to keep trimming it up. Any suggestions? Second, anyone know where I can find the engine manual for this boat. I found the basic owners manual on Cobalt’s site, but not the engine manual. It has a 5.7 L Volvo Penta.
I bet your trim piston are leaking or the trim piston check valve is bad. Not a big deal. I just bought a complete engine and outdrive manual on E-bay for under $30. Remember it goes by engine/outdrive mfg not by boat mfg.
Thanks, I appreciate the help and advice.
Looking at buying my first Cobalt and had couple questions about price and engine size. The boat is 2009 242 with Mericruiser 350 Mag Bravo III 300 prop HP? Is 300 hp enough for this boat? also price is 58k without trailer tax etc. Includes captains call, upgraded stereo, wake tower w/ speakers, docking lights along w/ few other things. I can find base price on nada but pricing options not as easy. rule of thumb for options? 50%? any help advice would be much appreciated. thanks
First off, as far as the engine goes, you should check out boat test.com’s link http://www.boattest.com/boats/boat_video.aspx?ID=394#Test-Result. This is a 246 (different boat but similar) with the same engine and out drive (26 pitch prop). It’s top speed was 49 mph but at its cruising speed it was burning less than 8 gph and earning 3.22 mpg.
A new 242 lists for $71,533, with options described and based on common applications there would be an additional $24,623 in options/accessories. Thats a total of $96,156 for a new boat. $58k sounds great but you need to be mindful of the boats condition including the engine. How many hours are on it?
My mistake, that is not the exact engine! Its a little bigger, there are also smaller engines (270 hp) in 24 foot cobalts that do about the same or better speed!
Anyone looking for a 2005 263 w/ painted radar arch? It is tri-colored ebony and comes with an Eagle trailer. It has 155 fresh-water only hours. Hate to sell, but moved from the lake to downtown Portland, Maine. Warranty started in September of ’06, when purchased as a leftover. $49,999 firm. 207-831-3550
Saw a very attractive 1975 Cobalt (about 18 feet) now on Lake George (NY) in the northern area on ebay. (no longer listed; but boat yet to sell). After talking with the man, whose son ran the ad @ Ebay, I discovered that the boat has no motor:
Any of you Cobalt afficionados know where to have boat taken to have motor installed?,
and guestimate of approximate cost of so doing? Appreciate any & all feedback; to jmettler39@aol.com. thanks, Jim Mettler 7/20/10
What would trim tabs do for the ride on a Cobalt 210? I know there is no replacement for waterline but my 210 is getting bounced around quite badly…
A boat that small wont help much other then if it’s pulling to one direction more when your under way. Your out drive should trim you on top of the water it’s self enough. Trim tabs on my 32′ help’s me stear straight and keep the bow up in rougher waters.
agreed! On my 87′ Cobalt Condesa, trim tabs only help keep it from leaning because of its 8 foot beam and high center of gravity. If the ride is bouncy, the water is probably pretty rough and unfortunately the only way to fix it is to trim the lower unit down. The boat will get less milage and might sound slightly funny.
Good Afternoon All,
I have a 2001 Cobalt 226 with the Mercury Bravo lll I/O. I live, fortunately, on one of the nicest lakes in WI (Green Lake) My boat has been well cared for every year since I bought it new 10 summers ago. This year, much like the rest of the country, we have had unusually warm weather. As such, the lake was already at 75 degrees come Memorial Day (very unusual) As a result, Green Lake has had significant weed growth (far exceeding what we normally have). The height of this weed growth arived for the 4th of July time frame. It has since subsided and gone away for the most part due to storms, use of a weed cutter on the lake, and boat traffic.
Sadly, I was one of many who’s engine intake was clogged by these weeds, causing my engine temperture alarm to go off. Initially, I thought it was the low gear lube alarm, but realized after checking the level that was not the issue. I checked for weeds and once finding them, removed them. I then started up the boat and it ran fine. I parked it with some friends out on the lake for a few hours, then drove it back across the lake to a resturant near my home. Near shore, the alarm went off once again. I decided to leave the boat on thier overnight and picked it up the next morning and drove it to my pier (a couple 100 yds)
That was a Friday morning. Saturday, I took my daughter and boyfriend out for a similar ride and the alarm went off again, even though no weeds were in sight. The boat would not start at all and remains that way today. My guess is that the impeller was shot from the initial weed issue, and so the engine keep overheating due to the impeller not working.
So my question is, has anyone experienced this issue and if so, what was the fix necessary to return it to it’s former condition.
Thank you so much for your imput.
JTK
I had a similar problem on my 2010 with a Merc 496 Mag but the weeds were caught in the heat exchanger as the engine has a closed cooling system. Removing the nuts on the side and removing the weeds solved my problem. It never got so bad that the engine would not start though.
I am traveling and away from my 240. Can someone tell me the diameter of the motorized stern light hole? Many thanks!
Is the 2010/2011 232 pretty much the same boat as the 242 (sans head)? Looking between the two and from the cobalt site, couldn’t really tell the difference. The overall length was the same, is the 242 have a higher freeboard/bigger hull?
Hi Hopper,
No…the 232 is a smaller lower freeboard boat. The two 242′s are called 242 and 242H which signifies that it has a head compartment. Both of these boats are identical except for the head.
John,
Thanks for the information. I haven’t seen the boats in person yet, but on another site someone mentioned they are essentially the same boat. I need a boat that will handle the chop better since our lake gets a little rough in the afternoon and on weekends. I like the idea of having the bigger hull/freeboard.
Most people go to the 242 from the 232 to get the head….and the big reclining lounge seat on the sunpad. The ride quality is not a big step forward but the freeboard does give you the feeling of security.
Hello,
I am new to Cobalt Boats and just picked up at 206. There is a silver nib on the starboard side of the boat that is well weathered. What is the function of this interesting gadget?
Thanks!
I have two silver “nibs” on the starboard side of my 250.
one is fore and is an anchor locker drain, the other is midship and is a fuel tank vent.
Fuel tank vent! That makes perfect sense! Thank you!
I’m hoping this is the boat. Our local dealer in NY is selling a 2010 242 for roughly 92k (incl/taxes etc). The boat seemed to be optioned up pretty good (20k in options – 250 mag, potty, sink, premium sound, tri-color, bimini, etc), not sure if we really need the head since our lake is not that big (we boat near Chatham). Boat has 37 hours on it.
What’s a fair price? We currently own a 18′ Searay that is fairly old, so it has been some time since we’ve purchased a boat.
I have a 2005 263 with arch & bimini shade in immaculate condition & even with warranty remaining! (It was purchased in Sept 06 as a new leftover, so that’s when the warranty began to run & is good to Sept 2011). Also has an Eagle trailer.
Anyone looking for a great deal? Has never been in salt water, but I moved to the coast & need to sell her.
Fast Idle problem. My 2001 Cobalt 226 with Volvo 5.7 frequently fast idles to the point where I don’t want to put it in gear from neutral–fearing it will damage my transmission. When I turn the key off then restart, the boat usually goes to a normal idle. Any ideas on what my problem is and how I can fix?
I’m looking for a place where I can have duplicates made for the ignition key on my 190 Cobalt.
I just got duplicate keys for my 252 at my local hardware store. It doesn’t have the Cobalt plastic cover, but it works
Visit my Website:
completly rebuilding a 1995 25″ cobalt …cuddy 454 chevy ….engine is out of boat…..floor is out…tank is out…out drive is also out…as is dash & guages…now where can u buy rubber for windshield ….rub rail ETC.those frilley thing that mus be replaced…thanks domald travis (252) 902-9717
I am looking for a cobalt 282 extended swim platfom. I have been told they just bolt on (nothing structural).
On the hunt for a low hour 20-24ft Cobalt. Looking for a recent model year (last 5 years or so)
Located in Ohio
Any help appreciated
1979 Colbalt, Mercury engine – Question, out on the boat in the evening with lights on, driving her slow when all of a sudden all power went out – completely shut down, had to paddle her back to our lift. No power whatsoever. The Questions: What would be some causes? Is there a master fuse that needs to be replaced? Any answers/thoughts appreciated.
On your dash panel below the switches are breakers. The one nearest the ignition switch is the ‘MAIN’ breaker. Try pushing to reset this. As to why it would have tripped, if this is the problem, is a mystery apart from the age of the breaker.
I had the problem on my ’78 when I had the engine running, the bilge blower and pump running it would pop the main. Again, likely due to the age. They are replaceable, might be hard to find an exact match. There was a post quite a ways up regarding replacements and where to get them.
James
Has anyone else noticed that the BUC guides seem to value boats so much higher than the NADA guides and which one do the banks use?